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Name That Valve Brand! PLEASE!!

HotnDryHotnDry Posts: 14Member
Does this valve look familiar??? I need to buy a couple of replacement valve wheels and would love to buy a couple of valves as well. Does anyone recognize this one. There are no markings anywhere. It's 3/4 sweat on the inlet and has an integral 3/4 pipe union on the discharge. 90 degree fully closed to fully open. No brand noted on the valve wheel. I don't know when it was installed but it surely wasn't yesterday. Any help greatly appreciated.


  • GilmorrieGilmorrie Posts: 99Member
    When you wish to replace a small garden-variety valve of virtually any kind, don't worry about the brand. In your case, you are looking for a radiator valve. Start here:
  • HotnDryHotnDry Posts: 14Member

    Thanks so much for the response. Unfortunately, the bottom connection is sweat. Many of them are at/below the floor line. Replacing them really looks like major surgery; opening walls and that kind of thing. Is there any other way to take these things apart besides a torch?

    I checked out the link. They had some nice stuff but no direct match. I'll try doing some more surfing. Again thanks for the ideas.

  • nicholas bonham-carternicholas bonham-carter Posts: 7,825Member
    What sort of system is this? Are you sure it is a sweat connection below the floor? If it's two-pipe, lets see a picture of the other end of the rad.
    Are you trying to throttle it down?--NBC
  • GilmorrieGilmorrie Posts: 99Member
    Here's one. If the connectors don't match, consider adapters.

    If you need to open up walls or a floor for access, so be it. That sometimes happens, often with us DIYers. If need be, call an experienced pro who should be able to handle it.
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 5,727Member
    If the piping goes to the basement you can cut the pipe in the basement in a spot where a coupling or union will work. Cut the pipe pull it out replace the valve drop the pipe back in and sweat the coupling
  • HotnDryHotnDry Posts: 14Member

    Yes, it's a sweat connection on the inlet - no doubt. System is two pipe steam. The other end is a 90 elbow w/integral union - threaded into the radiator - sweated onto the return line.


    I guess the hope was to:

    Find a valve wheel to replace the ones who simply need that.

    Find a duplicate valve and swap the guts so I didn't need to tear the place apart.

    Seemed like a better approach than ripping the place apart. DIY or Pay per View it seems like a logical approach. Does that make sense?


    Good eye, yes, I have one that's hopefully pretty easy. Rip out the foam in the basement. Undo the union on the second floor, heat the elbow in the basement and pull on the valve. Hope it's straight in between.

    Others not so much. Horizontal runs etc... Finding the valve would be great.

    Thanks to all who commented,


    Where can I get that valve???

  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,652Member
    I did look thru some 20 Year old catalogs of Hoffman Specialty valves and they are all threaded on the inlet.

    Is your entire steam system piped in copper?
    How about a picture of the boiler and its piping.

    This system obviously has some age on it and we are curious of the longevity of copper piping for steam.
    Perhaps only the supply & return runouts are copper?
  • HotnDryHotnDry Posts: 14Member
    Here are a couple of pics that might help. The first pic shows the broken off top of valve stem/missing wheel. The second shows inlet line OD of 7/8 which would seem to confirm sweat joint. Anybody recognize this valve? Possible brands I could chase after?

  • Steve MinnichSteve Minnich Posts: 2,368Member
    What @EBEBRATT-Ed said.
    Steve Minnich
    Tell me I can't, and I'll show you I can.
  • nicholas bonham-carternicholas bonham-carter Posts: 7,825Member
    edited January 13
    What benefits will be obtained by a new valve? If the system is one pipe, then the valve should not be shut off, or if two pipe, then some throttling can be done, if the balance is off because of some main venting problem. Make the system balanced first, and then if needed, change the valve.—NBC
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,652Member
    I have seen this type of valve in 1960's Nesbitt Syncretizer fan coil heating cabinets. These units are hot water.
    The valves are 1/4 turn balancing cocks/valves with screwdriver slot for turning. The packing bonnet nut has to be loosened to turn, (in my situation).

    How about pictures of the other end of the heater.
    And the boiler would be interesting also.

    Do you need to throttle these for control of the steam?
    Being only 1/4 turn I could imagine that being sketchy for adjustment.
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