Transport pipe making noises

Bosco

Why does transport pipe making water flow noises each time heat is turn on? Making us sleepless night

delta T

If it sounds like a 'babbling brook' then it is most likely air in the system. What kind of air separator do you have? Can you post pictures of the boiler and the piping attached to it? What pressure is the boiler running at?

Bosco

Photos attached

1Matthias

Holy.... That takes the prize for "Worst boiler install of the year". The more you look, the worse it is...

JUGHNE

Bosco, do you own the property or are you a tenant renting?

Bosco

@JUGHNE, we bought this house in 2012 and was already like this. @1Matthias , whats wrong with it?

JUGHNE

What are the 2 boilers in the basement for?
What kind of radiators are on each floor?
Pictures of a couple of radiators on each floor might help.

Bosco

First floor using baseboard heating. Second floor using steam radiator heating. I wonder if turning the valves at the radiator cause return water not flowing properly this making noise in transporting tube?

JUGHNE

So we conclude the noisy pipe is to steam radiator on second floor?
All radiators you show look to be 1 pipe steam type.
Those valves must be completely open to allow the condensate water to easily flow back down the pipe. If partially closed the steam will not let water flow back easily.
Even if completely closed most old valves will let steam sneak thru and no water out.
The water could build up in the bottom of the radiator and then suddenly flush down.

Your first radiator picture shows the air vent mounted too high, as if it were for hot water and not steam. What is the model name and number on that vent?

The other picture with the "Varivalve" air vent shows the correct location on the radiator as far as height location is.

Perhaps a "fix" for the noise is to insulate the pipe with 1" thick fiberglass insulation.....not foam type as it will melt.

What pressure shows on your gauge on the steam boiler?

Bosco

I will observe for a few days if turning valves wide open will resolve the “water flow” noise in transporting pipe. That small radiator air vent brand is “maid o mist”, why is it too high? that’s the only position for the air vent unless change a radiator. Pressure on gauge always shows 15-20 (boiler cuts off when it gets to 20) not sure if it’s clog or not as I am just a newbie.

I really like this forum it help me understand how boiler works and diagnosis the problem without being rip off by technician. Last year I hired a technician to reduce speed of boiling water temperature in my other boiler(Laars mini-therm) as it cuts off boiler when temp. reached 180 degree in less than 2min. on and off on and off. Technician change a faster pump for return water which does the samething. I simply fixed myself by turning gas lower.

JUGHNE

The vent location is the least of your worries at the moment.
Get the book "We Got Steam Heat" to learn about your steam boiler. (Amazon)
Your steam boiler should not exceed 2 PSI of pressure.
The relief valve will open at 15 PSI....if it works.....this is the single most important safety device on the steam boiler.
The water boiler also has a relief valve that should open at 30 PSI. The same safety issue...….if these things are plugged and will not open boilers can explode....serious matter.
Turning the gas pressure down to keep it operating is not a good fix. You must have other problems with the water boiler.
Perhaps internal water passageways are plugged.

1Matthias

@Bosco The steam boiler isn't piped correctly at all. The header is undersized, the two? mains out to the house should be separately brought down to the boiler, and one of the pressure controls is mounted incorrectly if I'm not wrong. I'm not sure, but I think there should be 2 risers out that boiler as well.

JUGHNE

Bosco, everything 1Matthias said is true about your boiler piping. These are very common problems we see here but not posing any danger for you. There is a lot of "low hanging Fruit" that you can change to gain advantages without major pipe work.
If you get and read that book you will realize what we are referring to.

Bosco

Thanks so much for the advice. Where is the relief valve for my boiler? Am I able to perform a test myself to see it’s working properly. Jughne mentioned it should open if pressure is >15psi. But pressure gauge always show between 15-20, get me nervous, I want to be safe.

JUGHNE

Your broken gauge shows 15-20 when cold, that is equal to really 0.
Your relief valve is on top of the steam boiler, it is a small device with the yellow tag on it. There is a small handle to lift to open, it should let steam out if boiler is running. It should then snap shut to reseal. It may not reseal but drip and pass a little steam.
You may have to replace it.
Find a place to buy one before you test it.....do not do it tonight.
Get that book to read, it will show you many things for your boiler and steam system.

Bosco

Thank you. To conclude, the water flow noise is the return of condensate in the pipe due to valve not fully open at the radiator. Since it’s a one pipe system, valve partially open cause condensate inadequately return on time and builds up inside radiator and turns into water and flows down the transporting pipe. Also gauge shows lossing because water was still inside radiator.

neilc

The valve on a one pipe radiator must be fully open, or fully closed.
You can not use it as adjustable, or throttleing.
See if you still have noise with the valve fully open.
Then, and if you need to throttle, that's done by slowing down the vent.

nicholas bonham-carter

Your pressuretrol (gray box on top) is set for very high pressure, and should be adjusted much lower. This high pressure, above 1.5 psi will make noise as well.
We can lead you through the necessary steps to identify and correct most problems with your system.—NBC

neilc

NBC, check the pictures again,
I think the one you see set high is the manual reset high pressure, other pic show Ptrol and gage on pigtail, and is pretty much bottomed out on Ptrol scale, however, gage is up around 15,
OP,
I think you need to check pipgtail for clean and clear,
while gage is off it should bottom out to 0, or it's bad and should be replaced, think of adding a low pressure gage, 0 - 3, or 0 - 5,
to better see what boiler pressure is doing.

JUGHNE

Hopefully, Bosco will soon have "We Got Steam Heat".
It will answer and explain most of the issues with his steam system.

However, his Larrs Minitherm hot water boiler (next to the steamer in the basement) has additional problems. The boiler manual for that may give info needed concerning the overheating of that one.