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Goodman Model #PGB 042100-1

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OleBones
OleBones Member Posts: 4
I am having a problem getting my gas furnace running. It is a package unit and the AC works. The blower motor runs when I turn it from auto to on on thermostat. When I switch thermostat to heat and call for heat nothing happens. I have 26 volts between the red and white wires from thermostat where they connect to the control board. All the limits are closed and the centrifugal end switch on inducer motor is open. It has a Honeywell Smart Valve gas control with a hot surface igniter. I have 26 volts going to the smart valve but only getting 13 volts out to the igniter/flame rod pilot assembly. My question is with the voltage being low out of the smart valve enough to prevent the sequence of operations from beginning with the inducer motor running? That voltage being low is about all I can find but just not sure if it will stop the sequence.

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  • DZoro
    DZoro Member Posts: 1,048
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    Put a jumper wire between R W at the furnace. If it starts, check wires/batteries/replace stat.
  • OleBones
    OleBones Member Posts: 4
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    so i have 26 volts on the w to r and also from common to w. the thermostat is a mechanical and uses no batteries.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    You should have 24 volts nominal (your 26) from common to red at the control board.....do NOT jumper those together.
    But do jumper the R to W, that is the switching action that your thermostat does. Heat then??
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,457
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    Don't jumper the r/w without taking at least one of the wires off the thermostat if it is a mechanical thermostat with an anticipator. It will burn it out right away.
    Rick
    SuperTech
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,074
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    Agree, I was under the assumption the wires were disconnected already.
  • OleBones
    OleBones Member Posts: 4
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    Damn tunnel vision any way. I replaced the thermostat about 6 months ago. It had a programmable one that quit me during the warm months. I replaced it with a Honeywell mechanical (cheapy), so I just figured it was good and had not tried jumping it. After all it was replaced just 6 months ago and I assumed it to be good. Well the jumper got some heat going so now I feel like a total ****. Will prolly end up replacing the smart valve since it is low on voltage coming out to ignitor/flame rod assembly. Thanks for the kick start to pull my head out and look around. After all, it was daylight!
    SuperTech
  • SuperTech
    SuperTech Member Posts: 2,183
    edited November 2018
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    > @OleBones said:
    > Damn tunnel vision any way. I replaced the thermostat about 6 months ago. It had a programmable one that quit me during the warm months. I replaced it with a Honeywell mechanical (cheapy), so I just figured it was good and had not tried jumping it. After all it was replaced just 6 months ago and I assumed it to be good. Well the jumper got some heat going so now I feel like a total ****. Will prolly end up replacing the smart valve since it is low on voltage coming out to ignitor/flame rod assembly. Thanks for the kick start to pull my head out and look around. After all, it was daylight!

    I enjoyed reading this post and I'm glad you got the heat working. Do yourself a favour if you are investing in a new smartvalve, buy a new igniter/flame sensor with it.

    With those new components it should keep the burner section of the furnace reliable for several years.

    I'm guessing as an owner of a furnace with a smartvalve that you wouldn't want one on your next furnace. I never liked them much. I hate when I need one and I have universal gas valves on the van that I can't use.
  • OleBones
    OleBones Member Posts: 4
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    SuperTech said:

    > @OleBones said:

    > Damn tunnel vision any way. I replaced the thermostat about 6 months ago. It had a programmable one that quit me during the warm months. I replaced it with a Honeywell mechanical (cheapy), so I just figured it was good and had not tried jumping it. After all it was replaced just 6 months ago and I assumed it to be good. Well the jumper got some heat going so now I feel like a total ****. Will prolly end up replacing the smart valve since it is low on voltage coming out to ignitor/flame rod assembly. Thanks for the kick start to pull my head out and look around. After all, it was daylight!



    I enjoyed reading this post and I'm glad you got the heat working. Do yourself a favour if you are investing in a new smartvalve, buy a new igniter/flame sensor with it.



    With those new components it should keep the burner section of the furnace reliable for several years.



    I'm guessing as an owner of a furnace with a smartvalve that you wouldn't want one on your next furnace. I never liked them much. I hate when I need one and I have universal gas valves on the van that I can't use.

    You can bet your bippy, you couldn't pay me to have another furnace with a smart, high dollar piece of crap, valve. I just finished replacing a smart valve on a water heater that was less than 3 years old. Looks to me as long as Honeywell has been in business, they would be manufacturing more reliable equipment or at least providing a better warranty on their POS valves!
    SuperTech