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Best set up for air heat exchanger

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cnmdesign
cnmdesign Member Posts: 103
edited October 2018 in Radiant Heating
I saw this was covered before, but there was no conclusion that fit my needs.

Given:

The fan spects:
Axial fan Motor
YWF4E-250B-2T
120v 60Hz 0.58A 70w 1580 r/min
120v 60Hz 0.32A 40W 1310 r/min
7uf/450V CLF

on a 50K water to air heat exchanger.

https://chillxchillers.com/air-to-water-heat-exchangers/zephaire-2-speed-air-to-water-heat-exchangers?sku=ZAU0120500ZA-2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvs-b_PPJ3AIVA5ppCh2CuQ_KEAkYASABEgIrNvD_BwE

on a 3/4 pex x 6' run.

Should I run the water through a Caleffi Quick Setter to make sure of GPMs, or will this throw off the other zones?
1500 sq/ft walk out basement, just over half under ground with one 6' slider.

Would staying with 1" loop be worth buying a 50 ft coil of pex for just 12 ft?
3/4 at 4 GPM will only get me 40K.

This unit will be on it's own zone.
What would be the optimen set up for this unit?

Need G PMs, type and location of T-stat.
Will it heat the basement well enough to shut off for awhile?

Thanks
Combat Veteran owned, Final Salute LLC on FaceBook & Twitter.
www.afinalsalute.com

Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,131
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    What is the calculated heat load for the basement? The coil, pipe, gpm, etc all get sized to the actual load.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    cnmdesign
  • cnmdesign
    cnmdesign Member Posts: 103
    edited October 2018
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    hot rod said:

    What is the calculated heat load for the basement? The coil, pipe, gpm, etc all get sized to the actual load.

    Up stairs is just under 37K. Can't see the closed in basement being a greater loss. Heat loss from old 90K CI kept the basement around 50* even on a design day with open floor joist and block walls.
    New one will not add that much heat to the room. Only what comes off the P/S pipes. Not looking for 70*. This was a last minuet add on. Was not going to heat this winter with boiler. Have small gas stand alone for cold cold days and nights.

    Not saying there is none but even on the calculators I used for the up stairs, there was no place to do a basement.

    30x50 room. Fan is located in the walk out end with the slider. Got the exchanger for free. Going with it. Just want to know how to max it out. If the out put is to hot, how would I choke it back?

    Thanks
    Combat Veteran owned, Final Salute LLC on FaceBook & Twitter.
    www.afinalsalute.com
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,131
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    Is this a pumped zone all by itself? If so a multi speed circulator will give you a bit of adjustment. The B&G Vario has a 9 position selector, nice for fine tuning.

    A Quicksetter would allow you to see and confirm GPM if that is important. Sounds like a very small load if boiler standby losses kept it 50F?

    3/4" should be plenty tube size.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    cnmdesign
  • cnmdesign
    cnmdesign Member Posts: 103
    Options
    hot rod said:

    Is this a pumped zone all by itself? If so a multi speed circulator will give you a bit of adjustment. The B&G Vario has a 9 position selector, nice for fine tuning.

    A Quicksetter would allow you to see and confirm GPM if that is important. Sounds like a very small load if boiler standby losses kept it 50F?

    3/4" should be plenty tube size.

    4 Caleffi zone valves with an Alpha2. Up stairs on one, one DHW, one for the (exchanger) basement and one on stand by for new out building later.

    Hope this helps, so, what would you suggest for a set up?

    Will the 3/4 max 40K be enough to get over say 60 or 65?. What GPM should I run? Is 4 OK? That should max out the 3/4 pex. If no QS how will I know what the flow rate is?

    Thanks
    Combat Veteran owned, Final Salute LLC on FaceBook & Twitter.
    www.afinalsalute.com
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,131
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    I'd be surprised if that basement load would be much more than 30- 35K, 4 gpm should be more than adequate. The basement will be a lower load than upstairs if it is mostly below ground and has hasted space above.

    The thermostat will shut down the unit to prevent over heating the space. if the unit and flow rate is oversized by a bit, it just turns off sooner.

    You could install a QS to balance and observe, but without an exact load number, what would you balance it to?

    Additionally if you are not concerned about maintaining 70F, the load is even lower.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    cnmdesign