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Taco zone board

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Snowmelt
Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,418
I have the switching relay 403 board but I have 2 new t6 thermostat that need to be powered. ( 4 wire) I do see 2 terminals marked 24 if I test that for power can I hook 2 thermostat to those terminals.

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  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,892
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    Yes. On the left side of the board is a 24v terminal block. You can grab the common off that.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
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    There should be an R, W, and C terminal for each thermostat.
    Steve Minnich
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,418
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    Must be an older board
    No c terminal I do have all my t stats powered up so it must be working
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,892
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    > @Snowmelt said:
    > Must be an older board
    > No c terminal I do have all my t stats powered up so it must be working

    Theres no 24v (R and C) near the transformer?
    Tiny terminals that need a flat head control screwdriver.
    My SR506 has to be at least 15 years old and I have it.
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,418
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    Yes there is that is what I used, on the zone control boards there is a c next to all the thermostat zones.
  • Dave H_2
    Dave H_2 Member Posts: 560
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    There is a difference between the -EXP control boards and the standard controllers.

    On -EXP, where the stat wires in, there will be R W and C terminals on both the SR and ZVC controllers.

    On the standard controllers, the ZVC controllers will still have the R W C terminals, on the SR panels, the stat terminals will be R W and to the left of the board will be the 24 and C terminals.

    Dave H.
    Dave H
    Canucker
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,418
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    Now I have one wi fi t-stat, the t-6 I cant get it to go above 70 degree , the good news is I only had the radiant calling and my return temp was around 150 degrees
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,892
    edited October 2018
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    150 return temp on in floor or staple up radiant?
    You need to crank down the mixing valve, unless I'm missing something.
    Other guys can give you more specific info. I could be way off but I dont believe it should be any higher than 115 on the SUPPLY for in floor and 125? on staple up? Again, on the supply.
    And your looking for a 20 degree drop on the return before it tee's into the mix.
  • Snowmelt
    Snowmelt Member Posts: 1,418
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    yes your missing the primary secondary loop. I have another thread which I made a primary secondary loop on a cast iron boiler. so lets start from the beginning. I have a cast iron boiler existing with one zone. I wanted to divide it to two zone BB and one zone radiant. the challenge for me was the radiant temp going out at 125 maybe 130 degree's and coming back well below the condensation temp of 140. so what I did was make a primary loop of 180 degree and on the heating side 2 BB and a radiant loop ( 3 loops 2 for kitchen and 1 for bathroom.) I don't think it was worth dividing the bathroom and kitchen so I just have them on one zone. the primary loop is about 12 to 15 gpm while the radiant is a max of 5 gpm. I put a temp gauge right above where the return water goes back to the boiler. I ran the radiant alone and the temp was 150 degrees.
    hvac nut does that clear it up a little.