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(More Pictures Added) Want to Pump Away

FB
FB Member Posts: 30
edited May 2018 in Radiant Heating







Planning to correct the piping of our expansion tank by "pumping away". The circulator now pumps toward the tank which is connected to the bottom tap of the air separator. Heated water travels through the separator and into the supply side of a Watts manifold. Would it be okay to leave the tank where it is now and run the pipe about ten feet along the walls to a tee (at the yellow arrow) on the suction side of the circulator? If that's okay, should we also pipe the make-up water line to a point between the expansion tank and the new tee? We've been plagued for years with an apparent pressure loss without ever finding a leak. We add a few ounces of water every few weeks to restore pressure. Although the original expansion tank was probably okay, I replaced it after ten years, adding a ball valve with a drain on the tank side. Boiler is a Buderus GB142. The tank is charged with 15 psi of nitrogen. If I close the valve and open the drain, the bladder pressure forces about a half gallon of water out of the tank; then the system pressure remains steady for a couple months before it begins to drop again. Could "pumping away" help with the pressure issue?
Fred in Lakewood, Colorado

Comments

  • newagedawn
    newagedawn Member Posts: 586
    need more pics of your system
    "The bitter taste of a poor install lasts far longer than the JOY of the lowest price"
  • newagedawn
    newagedawn Member Posts: 586
    i would move the air separator, expansion tank and auto feed combo to your yellow arrow then you are pumping away, keeping the design you have after the pump, just move it to before the pump
    "The bitter taste of a poor install lasts far longer than the JOY of the lowest price"
    FBSuperTech
  • newagedawn
    newagedawn Member Posts: 586

    this is a typical pump away pic
    "The bitter taste of a poor install lasts far longer than the JOY of the lowest price"
  • FB
    FB Member Posts: 30
    Thank you for the helpful reply with a picture. We will be doing exactly what you suggest. The question I forgot to ask: in addition to adding a Spirovent on the suction side, would it be okay to plug the bottom inlet on the existing Spirovent and leave it where it is? That would simplify the job.
  • SuperJ
    SuperJ Member Posts: 605
    edited May 2018
    Spirovents are pricey enough that it's probably worth it to move it (rather than add a second one) since you'll have the tools out anyways.

    You could just plug it, but my opinion is that it's best to put a dropleg and drain valve on the bottom of air separators (even if they aren't officially dirt separators). Crud will settle out due to the drop in velocity and the coalescing media. Nice to burp it out once or twice a year if you can.
    SuperTech