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Repair of 668S1 Caleffi manifold

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Boon
Boon Member Posts: 260
edited April 2018 in Radiant Heating
Hi again, folks, I adjusted the flow on some of the ports on my caleffi 668S1 manifold and a couple of the ports started leaking from the flow-meter side, either between the plastic flow meter and the brass, or between the two brass parts (See arrows on the pic).

Page 15, lower-right corner of this https://www.caleffi.com/sites/default/files/file/68367_na.pdf document seems to show the part I need but I'm not finding a part number anywhere.

Am I on the right track, and any tips for replacing these?
Thanks,
David
DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.

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  • Boon
    Boon Member Posts: 260
    edited April 2018
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    Dang it. I knew as soon as I posted about this I'd find them online, and I did: For anyone who stumbles onto this thread the Caleffi SKU is F69600.

    I'd still welcome any tips for replacing it, though it seems straight forward.
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 856
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    Reach out to Hot Rod (Bob Rohr). I suspect he'll have some advise.
    Rich_49
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,157
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    A 7/8 box or socket will work if you do not have metric tools. O- ring connection to the manifold and an O-ring up inside where the adjuster turns. Probably scaled up on the brass part.




    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Boon
  • Boon
    Boon Member Posts: 260
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    Hey @hot_rod I've had a heckuva time with the balance valves on my manifolds. I replaced two of the flow meter/balance valves in 2018 and now two more are leaking & two others (originally 7) don't seem to be allowing any water to flow even though I've exercised the valves full on/off to coax them into cooperating.

    When I installed the manifolds I swapped the position of the air separator & drain so I could turn them over; I needed the piping to go up into the ceiling - not into the floor. Do you think the orientation has any role in the failure rate, especially the ones that aren't flowing?

    The leakage is definitely from the inner o-ring area. Above, when you said, "Probably scaled up on the brass part," does that mean I don't need to replace either the o-ring or the entire valve body and, instead, maybe only need to clean the brass with something? soft brush or something?

    Thanks & hope you [and everyone reading this] is doing well.
    David
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,157
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    Sorry about the leaks, I will run this by tech support also.
    Usually failed o-rings are caused by some sort of scale or grit, crud in the system abrading the ring and brass.
    How's the system fluid test? Any cleaners or conditioners added? Glycol?
    I can send a few replacements, send back a leaker or two so we can analyze if it is a O-ring or stem tolerance issue.
    Send me your mail address PM or bob.rohr@caleffi.com
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Boon
    Boon Member Posts: 260
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    Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the offer for replacements but I already ordered replacements arriving Monday. When I get them swapped next week I'll send you the old ones.

    No conditioners or additives, no glycol. Water from the street was tested for pH and TDS when we filled and it was within tolerance for the boiler though I don't have those numbers right now. If an additive or conditioner would help I'll add it. i'll test it again, too, when I'm swapping the valves.

    We pretty much balanced the valves & then forget about them so they didn't get any/much exercise over the years. The circs are exercised via the boiler settings through the summer so the manifolds see a little flow in the off season. Thanks again and I'll reach out next week for an address to send the old stems.
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,157
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    With the manifold mounted like that, flow meters down, any dirt or rust in the water will settle to those low points
    Take a water sample now that the system has been running
    Any of the hydronic conditioners will help eliminate rust or corrosion if the ferrous metals in the system.
    Looks like basic rusty water deposits in the flow meters?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Boon
    Boon Member Posts: 260
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    Yeah, I'm sure there that is rust in there. I do have a 545356 Dirtmag closer to the boiler FWIW.
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,157
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    Boon said:

    Yeah, I'm sure there that is rust in there. I do have a 545356 Dirtmag closer to the boiler FWIW.

    What comes out when you blow down the DirtMag?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream