Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Saw my first GE Downfire Boiler today

Options
2»

Comments

  • AlexR44
    AlexR44 Member Posts: 5
    Options
    pamefs said:

    Does anybody want this boiler before it goes out to scrap? It's such a fantastic piece of equipment.
    Going...going...going.....

    I suppose I've missed this, huh?
    If not, and you still have it, there's a good chance I can use it. Any chance you have pics of what the top looks like under the cover?

    My grandpa has on from the 30's maybe 40's that is acting up now, we're having a little trouble figuring out what the issue is and fear we need a spare part that doesn't exist anymore.


    Anyone else reading that can toss some advice, here's the situation:
    He ran out oil and when we got more it wouldn't fire up. We figured the issue was in oil supply and eventually got that figured/ruled out, what happens now is it burns for about 10-30 seconds then starts to sputter and spit and goes out. At the same time, we notice small amounts of oil coming out from under the unit. So it seems like it's either getting too much oil, or has all of a sudden randomly got a weak transformer? (whatever makes the spark happen)
    My latest theory is something is wrong with the check valve in the return side of the nozzle or some debris or something is clogging the line. Would anyone happen to know line is the return? the smaller or larger one? The larger one has a gauge on it. (we're getting between 12 and 14 psi btw.

    Thanks in Advance.
    -Alex
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,520
    Options
    I would be EXTREAMLY cautious about attempting to start that boiler with oil leaking out of it. You maigh have an out-of-control fire on your hands
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,637
    Options
    what ed said about maybe it is filled with oil that will burn or explode if it flights off. does it still have the ge burner contraption or has it had a modern burner retrofitted?
  • AlexR44
    AlexR44 Member Posts: 5
    Options
    It's still the original GE setup with the fan and pump.
    Yeah, clearly, it's something we have to figure out before it gets cold again.
    To be clear, we're not talking pools of oil, just a tiny amount, the few seconds it takes to stop itself when the flame goes out.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,672
    Options
    AlexR44 said:

    It's still the original GE setup with the fan and pump.
    Yeah, clearly, it's something we have to figure out before it gets cold again.
    To be clear, we're not talking pools of oil, just a tiny amount, the few seconds it takes to stop itself when the flame goes out.


    For now..............
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • AlexR44
    AlexR44 Member Posts: 5
    Options
    well, it turns out the check valve in the fuel supply was not quite totally sealed. The screws into the housing were stripped a little and allowed it to suck a little air into the line. It fired up great the first time because we primed the line when re-assembling the filter and check valve after cleaning. He replaced the screws with nuts and bolts and it ran fine all afternoon. Whew.
  • ScottSecor
    ScottSecor Member Posts: 855
    edited April 2022
    Options
    @AlexR44 please post a photo of the boiler, burner and check valve. Most GE boilers had a oil filter with built in check valve that was not your typical Firomatic type. They were fitted with a screen filter that could be clogged. Some of them had check valves built in. All of the compressors (pump oil and air) were self priming. With no leaks in the oil inlet piping, one would never have to prime the burner.
  • AlexR44
    AlexR44 Member Posts: 5
    Options




    Sorry the burner pic isn't really useful, He started putting the covers back on and the work lights had been moved away. Anywho... you can see how the check valve is leaky, the fuel oil being on top and all. It's seeping through some of the screw holes. We're going to try making some gaskets for it.

    Can anybody suggest a suitable replacement? I'm not sure if a regular one-way valve would function well enough under such a low pressure draw. This unit has a diaphragm inside that pulls up and allows a plunger to open. The big surface area of the diaphragm is what I think let's it work so well. This is a good 20-30 ft away from the furnace and of course, about 6-8 ft lower than the high points of the line.
  • AlexR44
    AlexR44 Member Posts: 5
    Options
    ScottSecor said:

    @AlexR44 please post a photo of the boiler, burner and check valve. Most GE boilers had a oil filter with built in check valve that was not your typical Firomatic type. They were fitted with a screen filter that could be clogged. Some of them had check valves built in. All of the compressors (pump oil and air) were self priming. With no leaks in the oil inlet piping, one would never have to prime the burner.

    Yeah, I don't think we had to prime anything, it was more just a why not do it since the line was open and we had a little jug of oil there. (there's about a 7ft vertical shortly after the check valve, we just poured oil in it so it would be easier on the pump when starting it up)
    As for the filter, he has a normal in line filter before the check valve. well, when I say normal it's a can with an element, but not the same common size as in most houses, it's a little larger filter element.

Categories