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Piping to Power Flush a BoilerMate

I'm getting complaints from my parents about intermittent rusty hot water from their BoilerMate ever since the town replaced the water main on their street (and when they do hydrant flushing). The problem is that their tank is piped in a way which prevents power flushing. The cold water feed tee's into the inlet at the bottom of the tank with a drain. I've also noticed that this 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2" reducing tee happens to be black iron.
My plan is to re-pipe the cold water inlet/drain piping in brass, starting with a 3/4" coupler from the BoilerMate, to a reducing tee with a new ball valve drain. Brass x Copper union heading up to the existing 1/2" copper cold water inlet and shutoff ball valve.
To be able to power flush, I'm thinking about this for the hot water outlet:
Leaving the factory tee on the top of the BoilerMate, T&P valve at the top, brass nipple off the side into a second 3/4" tee. 3/4" ball valve drain off the bull of the tee. Brass x Copper union. Existing 1/2" copper has no heat trap. Thinking about a 1/2" long turn elbow down and a return bend up to existing ball valve.
If I close both the inlet and outlet ball valves, I connect a garden hose from the new drain at the top to the washing machine hookup to pressurize the tank, and power flush the sediment out the drain.
How would you guys pipe it to allow for power flushing?
My plan is to re-pipe the cold water inlet/drain piping in brass, starting with a 3/4" coupler from the BoilerMate, to a reducing tee with a new ball valve drain. Brass x Copper union heading up to the existing 1/2" copper cold water inlet and shutoff ball valve.
To be able to power flush, I'm thinking about this for the hot water outlet:
Leaving the factory tee on the top of the BoilerMate, T&P valve at the top, brass nipple off the side into a second 3/4" tee. 3/4" ball valve drain off the bull of the tee. Brass x Copper union. Existing 1/2" copper has no heat trap. Thinking about a 1/2" long turn elbow down and a return bend up to existing ball valve.
If I close both the inlet and outlet ball valves, I connect a garden hose from the new drain at the top to the washing machine hookup to pressurize the tank, and power flush the sediment out the drain.
How would you guys pipe it to allow for power flushing?
Nick, Cranston, RI
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Comments
something like a 1/2 hp transfer pump would stir things up inside.
trainer for Caleffi NA
The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
I'll try to get a picture of the before and after
I heard about draining the tank, bumping the boiler water up to 200-210, opening the zone and shocking the coil with cold water to help loosen deposits. This wand trick could be used to do the same thing.
Thanks
You can get these kits at most all plumbing suppliers and many box stores. it includes all the stuff you need to flush and de-lime the tank. There are dozens of brands, this happens to be a RectorSeal.
I'm 99% sure you have some limescale, and hard water deposits inside the tank and on the HX coils, these kits do a great job getting you back to like new conditions.
You will find other uses for the pump also.
trainer for Caleffi NA
The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
Amtrol suggests ice machine cleaner, I believe?
Here is an example of how I use the kits to de-lime 3 way valves. These small valves only take about 15 minutes to clean. Unless they are plugged solid.
Like Ed suggested put a nozzle of some sort on the hose to get more spray on the finned coils.
Carwash or pressure washer nozzles work well and can adapt to a hose to push inside the connections.
trainer for Caleffi NA
The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me