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Burner not filling with water after purging a zone

Ocelot
Ocelot Member Posts: 6
I have an oil burner with 2 zones on it, 1 for 1 old part of the house and 1 for the addition. The old part has cast iron radiators, the addition has new floor radiators, but I can't fine a bleeder on any of them. The system is fed with well water.

The pipes were rattling enough to wake people up at night. I purged what was listed as the addition (2nd floor), and some water came out, then it changed to air, an no more water ever came out. I left it wide open with the zone control on manual for 5 minutes or so.. When I turned the heat back on I could hear it sound like it was pumping and then after a few minutes it stopped. I bled all the old radiators just to be safe.

I went back down and opened the release valve and no water ever came back out. I set the zone controls back to auto wondering if it may just take some time to fill.

Thank you for any ideas on why there is no water

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 9,756
    If no water comes out of the pressure relief valve shut the fire off........Now.
    You should have a pressure gauge on the boiler that should show 12-15 PSI. If the boiler is too hot to put your hand on any part of it you must let it cool before adding water.

    There is a pressure reducing valve (PRV) between the cold water supply and the boiler system. The PRV regulates the water pressure/fill of the system.
    There would be a regular hand valve for the water line somewhere before the PRV. Is it open?
    Again boiler must be only warm to the touch before opening.

    Pictures of the system showing the water connection, PRV and boiler pressure gauge would be good.

    Ocelot
  • Ocelot
    Ocelot Member Posts: 6
    The hand valve is open, I am not sure where the PRV is.
    The valve on the right. floor 2, in image1 is the one i released the air from.

    The system has been sitting for about 5 hours I had the part with the heat, floor 1, running as it has the main control. I turned on the other part of the house and heard what did sound like a pump running and then stop.

    I then bled all the floor 1 radiators as the are the only ones with valves. I turned on all zones and heard the pump again and then some light gurgling and now the zone I didn't think had water the radiators got hot. I am hoping that is a good sign.






  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 9,756
    Do you have any water pressure in the boiler?
    The gauge on the front is a combo temp & pressure gauge.
    If no pressure is shown do not run the system.
    No pressure=No water.
  • Ocelot
    Ocelot Member Posts: 6
    I noticed that and now wonder if the gauge is bad. I bleed the first floor radiators and water shoots out. Second floor I hear gurgling, but only get air. Heat in whole house and hot water.

    Trying to figure if there is a way to manually add water, or if I should try. I have a connection to the main water supply I can use.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 9,756
    Sometime gauge sticks.....hard tap on the side might free it.
    The pop off valve on the top should show you some water if you open for 1 second and let snap shut.

    If water on first floor but not second then system pressure is not high enough to push it that high upstairs. 12-15 psi should get it up there.
    A pressure gauge (0-50psi) with garden hose fitting connected to the boiler drain would give you a temporary idea of pressure.

    But you probably need a pro to check it out. Where are you located?
    Ocelot
  • Ocelot
    Ocelot Member Posts: 6
    I opened up the bleeders on the second floor, heard more water and the pressure gauge has now gone up about 3 psi. I have the bleeder at the far end open and the control set to manual flow. Figured I could see if that gets enough water back in the system. I think I missed that step when I fully drained the zone.

    I have a good heating company in CT, just not the $$ for a few weeks if I need to call them so trying to do it myself right now.
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,757
    Turn the power off to the boiler. Manually open the zone valve for the 2nd floor. If you know which of the red handle valves on the right are for zone 2 shut that one off, turn 90* and put a short hose on the drain right above the valve you shut and put it into a 5 gal. bucket. If you don't have a 5 gal. bucket get one. The valve in the last picture is the pressure reducing valve. It has a fast fill lever at the top in the picture its on the right, lift that lever so its straight up and water should enter and fill system. Get the pressure up to about 25# and then put the lever back down. Open the blue handle drain valve and purge until no air bubbles come out of hose. Add water as needed and empty bucket as needed. You may be able to leave the fast fill lever up while draining but only do so if you can keep and eye on the pressure gauge at the same time your draining/ purging.
    Ocelot
  • Ocelot
    Ocelot Member Posts: 6
    Thank you for that. I didn’t open the fast fill valve when I did it the first time.

    Just so I don’t make a mistake, the copper lever with the blue tag hanging off and the arrow point left is the fast fill?

    The lever lifts up, but it also spins loose. Just lift straight up.

    Really appreciate the help. Always rented, first house, trying to learn and do as much as I can mulyself. Don’t worry, hires an electrician for the generator hook up.
  • Ocelot
    Ocelot Member Posts: 6
    Update, thank you. That was the fast fill and the missing step. I didn’t open that when I flushed it. Pressure is at 14-15psi right now, water flowing through with no bubbles.
    Grallert
  • unclejohn
    unclejohn Member Posts: 1,757
    Good Job.