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Lockout due to retries

Iceman3434
Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
I have an old Coleman evcon furnace. My error code is flashing 7 which reads lockout due to retries. When it calls for heat the exhaust fan will start then the igniter will glow but the gas will not flow. With a multimeter I checked my voltage to my gas valve and its reading 24 volts. I know there's a chance it's my flame sensor but I thought that would only cause it to fail after ignition. I think it's my gas valve but have no idea please help.
Chris

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,686
    Does the 24V reading you get coincide correctly with the ignition sequence.
    Are you sure gas is to the furnace?
    Do you ever smell gas while the 24V is active?
    Iceman3434
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the reply. The sequence seems right. Couple of seconds after the igniter glows, valve clicks and gets 24v. It is getting gas because it fired a couple times since the first failure.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,686
    Does it have a separate pilot tube/burner that must be light first or does the igniter light the main burner directly?

    IIWM, if pilot burner I would clean the pilot orifice first.
    If main direct light I would change igniter, even though it glows is could have diminished capacity for ignition in either case .
    Iceman3434
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    I believe it lights the main burner directly but I'm not positive. Wouldn't I hear gas trying to come out
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,686
    If direct light you should hear it.
    Pilot lights would have 1/4 or smaller tubing from gas valve to burner.
    Pictures of gas valve would help.
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    Here's a pic of the gas valve. And thanks again so much for your help I really appreciate it.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,686
    How about a clear shot of the wires & markings on the gas valve?
    Also picture of wiring diagram, may be on the back side of one of the doors.
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    Here's closer pic on the valve. 2 brown wires come from the valve and go to the circuit board.
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    Here's the wiring schematic, sorry for the poor quality. It's obviously been sitting in there a long time.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,686
    Do you have other gas appliances that seem to work properly?
    One should check the gas inlet pressure to the furnace.
    There has been others here with lack of gas pressure because of the cold temps.......are your temps getting back to warmer/normal?

    Looks like direct ignition of main burner.
    Diagram shows both flame sensor and HSI.

    Do you get any ohm reading on the gas valve with all connections removed? (that has sometimes been an iffy measurement for me.)

    Yes, the flame sensor should not come into play until you have flame.
    I would just try a new HSI as it is easy and cheap compared to the gas valve.

    Then probably the gas valve.

    Hoping more people would jump in here with more opinions.
  • Iceman3434
    Iceman3434 Member Posts: 7
    We're getting gas to our fire place which has gotten us through the night. Plus water heater. Outside reach 30 today so he improvement. I did get conductivity on valve when isolated. I'll try the HSI tomorrow when the parts store opens. I can't thank you enough for the help. Wish every one was like you willing to help a total stranger. Happy New Year to you and thanks again.
    JUGHNE