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Questions on Moving a Rad

I have two supplies in my MBR, but only one rad. This was the case when I bought the house. M the BR is comfortable.

But I'm planning on framing a closet where the Rad is now so I want to move it from the supply it's on to the other one.

I'm thinking of replacing the current supply valve on the new placement as the old one doesn't look like it's in the best shape. I'm also thinking a cap on the supply where it is now is a better option to close it off in the future closet than a valve.

Is this as straightforward as it seems. I'd like to do it myself, but I'm not sure if there are any pitfalls I'm not aware of that should be avoided in taking off two valves, installing a new one, and hooking up the rad to it.

Comments

  • acwagner
    acwagner Member Posts: 505
    I've moved radiators on my own system. It's best to move the original valve and the radiator together. The valve connects to the radiator on what they call a spud. These two pieces are considered a mating pair. If you use a new valve with the original spud on the radiator, there's a chance it will leak no matter how tight you make the union.

    Alternatively, you can get a new valve and change out the spud on the radiator. Taking the old spud out will be an adventure. There's a few online videos about how to do this.

    What makes you think the old valve is bad? Is it leaking? Just look beat up?

    Also, the valve is made of brass. So, unless you want to chew it up when you take it off, don't use a wrench with teeth.

    Personally, I would just cap the old supply. Or, depending on how that riser is piped and how many radiators are fed off it, you could put a main vent on it to help balance your system.
    Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
    18 Ounce per Square Inch Gauge
    Time Delay Relay in Series with Thermostat
    Operating Pressure 0.3-0.5 Ounce per Square Inch

  • Johnson_Rod
    Johnson_Rod Member Posts: 31
    A bit confused about your response. You say It's better to leave the supply valve connected to rad -- how would I get it off the supply and connect it to the other?

    I expected to remove the valve from the rad, both valves from their risers (either wrench or cutting?) and then new valve on the on the other riser.

    Sounds like there's another factor-- the spud b/w the supply and the rad that I have to account for.
  • acwagner
    acwagner Member Posts: 505
    Sorry, I suppose my response could have been more clear. What I meant by mated pair is that spud and valve uniquely match to make a seal. You can disconnect it and reconnect it, that's not the risk. The risk is connecting an entirely different new valve to that old spud connection. A new valve and the old spud may not seal properly.

    Your sequence is right. Disconnect the radiator from the valve first. Then, remove the valve from the supply line. Install that (old) valve in the new location, and then connect the radiator.

    To be clear, a new valve may work connected to that old spud. You could always try it and see if it leaks or not.
    Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
    18 Ounce per Square Inch Gauge
    Time Delay Relay in Series with Thermostat
    Operating Pressure 0.3-0.5 Ounce per Square Inch

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Are both supply pipes the same size? If so, and you are sure that second pipe is a steam supply pipe. You should be able to relocated the radiator. The only pitfall in your plan is that getting those valves off of the pipes may be difficult, but doable. When you move the radiator, do cap the unused supply pipe. Leaving a valve there, as a shut-off may be problematic, in the future. Old valves don't always close 100% and steamed clothing is not what you want.
  • Johnson_Rod
    Johnson_Rod Member Posts: 31
    Pretty sure they're both the same size, but I'll double check. Here are pics if it helps.

    Is it expected thst the valves will come off with a wrench and some muscle?
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Yes, a pipe wrench on the pipe, below the valve and one on the hex of the valve and some muscle should do the trick. They both look the same size, 1..25".
  • Johnson_Rod
    Johnson_Rod Member Posts: 31
    Great ty. Pipe dope or tape before the new valve goes on?
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    A good quality Pipe dope, rated for high temps should be fine. If it is not rated for steam temps, it may stink when it gets hot.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,042
    If those valves are the same brand name, age and vintage, you may be able to leave the valve that is the "new" location.
    The abandoned spud union may match the other valve you have in use.
    Then you could just remove the unused valve and cap.

    3 point on the pipe wrenches.....check Utube.
  • Kahooli
    Kahooli Member Posts: 112
    I had good results with megaloc blue. it's alcohol based with no oil content.