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Energy kinetics classic system 2000 problem...again!

PraetorPraetor Member Posts: 8
I've posted on here before about the very same system. I hate this system at this point. My wife and i bought this house 5 years ago, and every year I have to fiddle with it to turn the heat off and on for spring and winter, i shouldn't have to. my system is pictured. this year i had to replace the zone valve motor, after doing so, i find the system doesn't turn of the heat, it's running continuously,and doesn't stop when it reaches it set limit of between 62-70 deg., as a matter of fact the thermostat says it's 85 deg in the house! this is the thermostat i have the RTH2510/2410 series, this is the wiring block to it, which following the installation instructions, i connected the colors of my thermostat wires to what i thought were the color letter codes pictured in the casing. turns out the blue wire pictured going to the system is the thermostat wire, so I connected the blue to "the block marked "B" and the white to 'W", of course. but trying to research this brand of thermostat via the internet I found it might be better to connect the blue wire to "R RC", which are jumped, together. I only have one zone valve (ranch house) and two wires to connect to the thermostat. every approaching warm season,
i remove the one white wire from the "Z1" block, because turning the heat setting off on the thermostat, doesn't turn it off, so I'm basically bypassing. Then, every cold season, I have to do the reverse. can anyone help? i can supply more info if need be.



Comments

  • STEVEusaPASTEVEusaPA Member Posts: 1,584
    edited November 10
    Why do you hate the system? According to your last post (zone valve) and this one (thermostat wired wrong), seems to be problems not actually related to the boiler.
    If your heat wont shut off, it could be as simple as a shorted out zone valve end switch wire, shorted (or wrongly wired) thermostat, or possibly the primary control. I don't see why you would need R and RC jumped for a boiler thermostat.
    You really need to find someone who knows this system. Ask before they come out.
    I think as long as it's not the System 2000 Manager, any competent tech should be able to figure it out. And if it is the manager, the instructions for check out are pretty simple.
    So the guys from EK, who you thanked for their help on your last thread btw, should be able to find a competent contractor in your area familiar with their system, and at the very least, can walk any competent contractor thru a service call on the manager.
    The last thread was 2.5 years ago, and it appears you never found a competent tech.
    5 years without a proper operation and maintenance seems to be too long.
    steve
  • EBEBRATT-EdEBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 2,722
    Don't hate the equipment. From all I have herd it's good equipment. You just have to know how to work on it. EVERY brand of equipment has it's issues most far more than yours.
  • rick in Alaskarick in Alaska Member Posts: 632
    The lights you have showing on the manager are showing it to be making hot water for your domestic use. There is no heat call showing. If the thermostat is not wired correctly, it will cause issues. You need your thermostat wires hooked up to terminal r and w on the thermostat.
    Rick
  • Alan WelchAlan Welch Member Posts: 66
    You said you have the thermostat hooked up to Z1, that is your problem. Z1 is for hot water. Hook the thermostat wires to T2 and A1 on the left of the manager and the zone valve wires to Z2 and 24 volt on the right side. Don't bash a system because you don't understand it. You have a great system, easy to diagnose and very efficient when wired properly.
  • PraetorPraetor Member Posts: 8
    Wait, if "R" and "RC", on the thermostat terminal block, shouldn't be jumped, then I can remove it?
  • PraetorPraetor Member Posts: 8
    so, I can remove the jumper between "R" and "RC"? that was factory equipped with the thermostat? I've done some more research and will post an update...
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