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How to insulate steam pipe elbows?

johnbk
johnbk Member Posts: 1
I’m installing 1” thick fiberglass insulation tubes onto the horizontal 2” main steam pipes, as well as the smaller pipes that branch off. But how do you insulate the elbows? It’s a one pipe system.

Comments

  • FriendlyFred
    FriendlyFred Member Posts: 27
    If you're using PVC jacketed insulation and want your elbows to match, take a look at the type of products offered here: http://www.buyinsulationproductstore.com/pvc-90-deg-elbow-cover/

    For 2" pipe and 1" insulation, the chart recommends a #11, which comes out to $2.19 per each. Comes with a fiberglass insert, wrap around the elbow and seal the PVC jacket around it, overlapping with your straight pipe insulation.


  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,722
    What would you rather spend money or time?
    If money then buy the PVC elbows.
    If time you can use the mitered corner technique. See this thread.
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/151757/insulation-pics-using-mitered-joint-technique#latest
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • gerry gill
    gerry gill Member Posts: 3,078
    We use either high temp cement, wrapped, and coated with childers mastic, or lately the guys are buying bigger insulation and mitering the corners and carving out some of the fiberglass.
    gwgillplumbingandheating.com
    Serving Cleveland's eastern suburbs from Cleveland Heights down to Cuyahoga Falls.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,455
    for heating the pvc covers are but on with white barbed thumbtacks available at your insulation supplier.

    Cutting, coping and mitering are fine if you want to keep the cost down but it will take some practice and probably waste a little material.

    It may boil down to how many fittings you have to cover. If only a few buy the pvc covers. If a lot of fittings you may want to cut and miter.

    For me it's covers
    New England SteamWorks
  • For my own house I cut strips of mineral wool and wrapped them with high-grade duct tape. Not pretty (use white to match the pipe), but it can be made surprisingly neat after you develop the technique.
  • If you haven't purchased already and are doing it yourself, I would go with 1-1/2" insulation. Makes an appreciable difference, and the cost to efficient ratio without labor cost is awesome!
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Johnbneal
    Johnbneal Member Posts: 1
    It's great to see the photos of all the nice insulation detailing! One suggestion I would have is to bump up the insulation thickness. For a point of reference the energy code here in California (yes we have steam!) requires the following:
    201-250 degree pipes (steam)
    2.5" thick insulation on pipes <4" diameter
    3" thick insulation on pipes 4" diameter and greater
    141-200 degree pipes (condensate)
    1.5" thick insulation on pipes <1.5" diameter
    2" thick insulation on pipes 1.5" diameter and greater
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,024
    If you want simple and pretty, buy more $$... I have used this Techlite product on a few jobs that I wanted a unique look. I used red and yellow and other colors.

    They have preformed shells for ells and tees and the glossy PVC covers for fittings in matching colors.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,455
    The energy code in CA is fine but put 2.5 in wall on 2" pipe and you now need room for a 7 1/2" diameter pipe. In most existing jobs that will not happen.

    The insulation thickness is a case of diminishing returns. Every inch of insulation you buy costs more money. After the first inch the insulating value of each inch decreases as the thickness increases.

    Most old jobs would do well to have 1" or 1 1/2" wall a lot better than bare pipe
  • fixitguy
    fixitguy Member Posts: 91
    I always use as thick insulation as possible and I insulate the returns. No need to heat the basement. For the ell's and tee's I use 3" PVC vent fittings that I split on the bandsaw, pack with fibreglass and hold together with zipties.