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Bleeder valve stuck crushed-what should I do

jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
Hi-i am starting a new thread. I have one older bleeder valve I was trying to replace. I have use vice grips and even a 2-foot pipe wrench and nothing will budge it. The valve had now been crushed and I don't know what to do.

I changed a couple others no sweat, they were old. This one was newer and it looks like it is fully cranked down. It seems to still be holding pressure, when I turn the screw I hear the hiss and I can then close it.

Couple things:
  • The system is empty- the hiss is from water falling out.
  • I was working on a bigger project on another thread-this was the last step-was helped by this board-hoping for a little more.
  • This is a hot water circulation system (no steam)
I am considering:
  1. just crushing the thing and trying harder to turn it out
  2. Maybe a blow torch?
  3. Maybe drill out the middle and use needle nose to pull out the reaming metal-trying to preserve the threads?
  4. Just leave it-this irks me to do this
  5. What else???
Would appreciate advice-I search and could not find much.






Comments

  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 6,039Member
    I would take a dental angle pick and cut away the paint to expose some threads. Then spray with Kroil or PB blaster and let soak a couple times.
    If it does twist off then you have to drill out the remaining parts.
    They are usually 1/8" pipe thread. Then a good easy out might remove the guts. Retap with the correct 1/8" pipe thread tap.

    If you drill into the rad threads then get the right drill size, drill and tap for 1/4" pipe thread. Install new vent with 1/4" X 1/8" brass bushing.
  • jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
    edited October 2017
    JUGHNE said:

    I would take a dental angle pick and cut away the paint to expose some threads. Then spray with Kroil or PB blaster and let soak a couple times.
    If it does twist off then you have to drill out the remaining parts.
    They are usually 1/8" pipe thread. Then a good easy out might remove the guts. Retap with the correct 1/8" pipe thread tap.

    If you drill into the rad threads then get the right drill size, drill and tap for 1/4" pipe thread. Install new vent with 1/4" X 1/8" brass bushing.

    Amazing! thank you. you are correct about the current thread size-see the part that I am replacing with.

    Question. If I drill carefully why would I need to retap with 1/8" thread? I get if I fowl the thread I should go to 1/4. Just trying to understand and avoid do more thing because I don't want to fowl the radiator.

    Thank you!


  • Leon82Leon82 Posts: 628Member
    It's going to be hard to drill it straight. Make the hole undersize and use the easy out like suggested.

    The retap will ensure a good seal.
  • jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
    Leon82 said:

    It's going to be hard to drill it straight. Make the hole undersize and use the easy out like suggested.



    The retap will ensure a good seal.

    Got it. whoever put this one in tightened it so much it is practically flush with the radiator.

    If I have to go to 1/4 it the metal hard to drill or is it soft-ish.
  • Leon82Leon82 Posts: 628Member
    edited October 2017
    It looks like iron so it will drill fine. Just go slow. I would still set a stop if you have one so you don't over drill if it grabs on you.

    Try to get a "feel" for the easy out. It is hardened and you don't want it to break.

    Don't send the tap all the way in either. It is tapered and once the fitting starts inside I would go in half turn increments untill it feels like a good depth. Guage it with an existing fitting
  • jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
    Leon82 said:

    It looks like iron so it will drill fine. Just go slow. I would still set a stop if you have one so you don't over drill if it grabs on you.



    Try to get a "feel" for the easy out. It is hardened and you don't want it to break.



    Don't send the tap all the way in either. It is tapered and once the fitting starts inside I would go in half turn increments until it feels like a good depth. Guage it with an existing fitting

    I GOT IT WITH PB PLASTER! knowing how to fix it gave me the confidence to bite into it more with the wrench and it released with the pipe wrench. Am I good to just put the new one in or are you still thinking I should tap. threads look good!
    Thank you
  • BobCBobC Posts: 5,000Member
    If you test fit the new valve and it feels good you should be all set. Use some teflon tape on the new valve when you really install it.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Leon82Leon82 Posts: 628Member
    Nice. 1/8 doesn't need much force to seal, the previous guy did not know finesse
  • jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
    BobC said:

    If you test fit the new valve and it feels good you should be all set. Use some teflon tape on the new valve when you really install it.

    Bob

    I did. 4 wraps with teflon take and pipe dope too. Its on and I am about to fill the system and test for leaks.

    Fingers crosssed and thanks!!
  • jjustinia11jjustinia11 Posts: 99Member
    Leon82 said:

    Nice. 1/8 doesn't need much force to seal, the previous guy did not know finesse

    Thank you! knowing what to do if it went bad helped me get it. knowing that I could expand to 1/4. huge help!!

    Water on and all valves are solid and air tight.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 6,039Member
    A HAPPY ending! ;)
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