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Buderus oil boiler problem

jsantos7665 Member Posts: 17
edited June 2017 in Oil Heating
I have a buderus g125/be oil boiler. during winter operation, I have no problems with boiler during winter months. But during summer, i use boiler for domestic hot water only. this problem only occurs during summer months. if the boiler goes a long period of time without firing and then has a call, it does not fire and I get a display on logamatic 2107 that states "BURNER ERR". If i push reset button, burner fires and all is fine until it happens again at a later date. It almost seems like it looses its prime but last time tech was here he said prime was fine. direct vent outside in case anyone is wondering.


  • rm9x
    rm9x Member Posts: 1
    I have the same set up and experiencing the burner error once a night during 2107 night setback mode. It fires up fine after pressing reset and fires up fine repeatedly during the day. Suggestions? Thanks.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    Nuisance lockouts can be tricky and require a good tech to go thru a proper sequence of troubleshooting to eliminate potential issues.
    The 'Could Be's:
    -Dirty heat exchanger
    -Bad Primary
    -Bad/dirty flame sensor
    -Weak ignitor
    -Loss of flame due to high vacuum
    -Loss of flame due to vacuum leak
    -Bad fuel pump cut-off
    -Poor combustion set-up (draft, excess air)
    -and on and on

    Suggestions...get a good/knowledgeable tech in there with the right tools and skills to properly diagnose and find the issue.
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,002
    Need some pictures of oil piping and tank. Basement tank? Underground tank? Single pipe or two pipe? Tiger loop?

    What you describe sound like a classic example of a suction leak/loss of prime on the oil lines.

    Can't tell you how many customers have replaced oil burners and parts because the burner won't run (and the replacement doesn't run either) due to a suction leak.

    It's simple. If the oil can't get from the tank to the burner the burner won't run.

    There are different ways to pipe oil lines (right @STEVEusaPA ) we will battle this out.

    Could it be something else? YES

    need to start with the oil lines first

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 1,884
    edited April 2019
    I would start with the burner...How is the start sound ? Rough ? It could be it needs an adjustment . Your O2 may be a little too high for very cold boiler .Is the burner a Riello ? Insulators could be cracked , ... Also use the size and angle what Buderus states on the boiler but use the "W" nozzle instead of the "B" ..
    I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
  • HotanCool
    HotanCool Member Posts: 53
    If a burner loses it's prime,unless it's a 2 pipe setup,I was taught you can't bleed out any air just by hitting the reset. Especially if it's a Riello with a 4 second lockout. I suspect the above issues are caused by a cold chamber start up. As SteveusaPA states,a proper Combustion Analysis is in order. Draft,nozzle,lining a chamber,all that needs a looks see.
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 4,593
    If you do in fact have the G125/BE boiler with the Buderus burner then you need to contact Buderus to see if anyone in your area is certified to work on it.
    It came shipped with a Tiger Loop Ultra so if its losing prime you should see air in the window.
    The primary flashes a code if lockout occurs. Try to record it.
    The BE burner needs outside combustion air and the test is done by using the manuals graph chart and adjusting the pump pressure to bring the CO2 reading into line with the current outdoor ambient temperature (as measured from the air intake port at the back of the boiler). All while keeping spec'd draft and over fire static pressure.
    It also takes a very specific Hago nozzle. It cannot be substituted.
    If it's not set up correctly, its toast.
    A good tech should be able to read the manual (on your dime) and figure it out if he or she has the right instruments.
    Save for a few adjustable baffles, the block is the same as the G115.
  • jsantos7665
    jsantos7665 Member Posts: 17
    Hello everyone and thank you to everyone that offered sincere help. I would like to let everyone know that 3 weeks ago, I found the problem. I continued to monitor the g125 closely on startup. I was inspecting primary and noticed a very small brown burn mark on one of the high voltage wires that was touching the blower motor. from my days eons ago when I used to repair crt televisions, I remembered that the flyback transformer wire would arc through the rubber shielding. I moved this high voltage attached to primary away from blower motor case. The unit has not failed since. My wife is now off my case because she doesn't have to reset every morning before taking a shower. :):)

    Thank you again to those that sincerely offered assistance.