Cast Iron Baseboard Question.....

Solid_Fuel_Man

The paint is an acrylic enamel. Not sure why pics didn't load. Have to upload as a file and not a picture I guess.

NY_Rob

^ looks great!

From reading/searching... it seems latex is a no-no and can cause rusting within a few hours whereas the enamels (oil or solvent based) protect against rust.

At this point... unless I find compelling evidence against it- I plan to spray paint the backside/fins with Rustoleum and use a sponge hot dog roller with regular Rustoleum out of a can on the front and top after the install.

I'm planning to do the install this weekend....

NY_Rob

One more question for the pros....

Do I need to level or pitch these cast iron baseboard radiators?
The install manual has nothing regarding leveling.

The supply and returns will be from the bottom taps and I will be installing the Taco hygroscopic coin vent(s) to the top taps to release trapped air.

Thanks in advance...

NY_Rob

Flushed, assembled and installed the 9' and 10' sections today. All 3/4" copper no pex!

Started at 9am finished at 8pm... no breaks.

Will pressure test tomorrow, if it's all good will paint and do wood trim work.

At 170lbs for the 10' section- it's not a super fun one man job! I'm tired, sore, stinky... already took two aspirins and a hot shower. Getting up tomorrow morning should be interesting....

bob_46

I hope you didn't forget the reflective foil on the wall.

NY_Rob

^ that's only called for if you're recessing the GOV-BOARD into the wall... I'm installing freestanding.

I will have to use the "Air-Seal" tape and quarter round molding along the top edge though.

bob_46

It was always standard operating procedure but I have been retired for 16 years.

NY_Rob

^ Thanks for your concern Bob... I appreciate it.
Here's what the install manual says...

3. Recessing of Gov-Board Assemblies and Trim.
(If Gov-Board to be installed free-standing, proceed to
Step 4.)
Gov-Board and Trim may be partially recessed or installed free standing against the finished wall surface. Although procedure for preparing recess may vary slightly with type of finished wall, in general, steps outlined below for lath and plaster construction may be followed:
a. Nail ½” plaster ground to studs with the
bottom of the plaster ground located 10”
above finished floor.
* Additional height must be allowed if recess
prepared before finished floor is laid or if wall-
to-wall carpeting is to be installed – see Step 2
of Installation Instructions.
b. Line back of recess with paper-backed
aluminum foil. This can be accomplished
quickly and neatly by stapling foil to studs with
staple gun. Foil surface should be on room
side.

Step 4 is the following illustration...
(My install is via the top illustration including the 2-1/2"X1/2" wood strip under the new radiator)

Gordy

Meh, seems like a detail that deteriorates over time. At the very least you followed manufactor instructions. I akin it to bubble foils in joist bays collecting dust.

NY_Rob

Install is done except for the 1/4 round wood strip at the top of the radiator- waiting for the "Air-Seal" tape to arrive before installing the molding.

The Rustoleum worked out great- spray painted the back with the fins and the right & left valve covers and corner cover... liquid Rustoleum with a sponge hot dog roller on the top and front sides after installed.

One leaker... the supply male 3/4" adapter to copper pipe.
That one is very close to the floor and wall and can only be soldered once the radiator is fixed in place. I guess in my quest to not burn down the house I didn't get it hot enough. Lost about 1.5hrs fixing that one after the fact!

Oh, well.... done and done....

On to the Heating Edge 2 upgrades.... at least those sections aren't 170lbs each.