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Oil boiler - rear refractory cracked, needs replacement
My first time to this site; I've already found it very useful. Found an article on preventative measures that should be taken when one has an oiler boiler with a cracked rear refractory.
i've done some work on my boiler, but stick to things I feel comfortable with, or that I can do with a handy person who has experience in both plumbing and electric. Together, we have installed a new smart controller, new shut-off valves, new back flow preventer, etc. What I will not get into is cleaning/tuning the system.
Last year, my oil tech said the rear refractory was starting to show cracks and recommended it get replaced at the next system tune-up. This work fits with what I feel capable of doing, with a little bit of Q&A.
I've read the instructions for installing a new Lynn #1072 replacement combustion chamber kit, watched a youtube video of a tech installing one on a Weil-McLain boiler (mine is a WG-04), and am ready to do this myself with the assistance of the handyman I'll hire.
The only question I currently have is what to disconnect to open the chamber door, and what to do when reconnecting this part. Referencing the attached picture, I would:
1. Turn off the oil valve coming into the oil filter cartridge on the left side of the oil burner.
2. Remove the screws holding the oil filter cartridge to the burner, and pull the cartridge assembly away from the burner.
3. Open the chamber door – one bolt.
4. Remove and replace the rear refractory.
5. Close and bolt the chamber door.
6. Reattach the oil filter cartridge assembly.
7. Turn on the oil valve coming into the oil filter cartridge.
- Am I correct that this is all that needs to be done to access the rear refractory?
- By removing the oil filter cartridge, might I be introducing air to the system, so I should partially tighten the 4 screws, then open the oil valve, let it flow for a few seconds to purge any air, then tighten the screws?
My thanks in advance for your input.
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