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Replace auto-filler pipes with brass?

Hi - I have a small residential gas-fired HB Smith steam boiler (8-series/SW4) with a McDonnell & Miller 47-2 autofiller, all about 15-20 years old. (see photo)

Problem: Every few years, I remove, disassemble, and de-rust the autofiller, clean the rust, replace the filter and gasket, and reinstall it. Last year, I replaced the return/condensate pipes with schedule-80. The installing plumber used schedule-40 which rusted out. At the end of this heating season, I will need to clean the rust from the autofiller and its piping as well. (Sorry if this is TMI.)

Question: should I replace the autofiller (and glass level indicator) pipes with all brass? Right now, most of the pipes are black steel. It's all 1/2", cost isn't a factor. But is brass preferred for autofillers?

The nipples coming from the boiler are steel. Can I just put in brass directly to the boiler, or should I come out of the boiler as black pipe and then dielectric unions to transition to brass?

Thanks VERY much!

Comments

  • philsego
    philsego Member Posts: 23
    Oops - I forgot to include the photo...
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,042
    How much fresh water does your boiler take on, other than when you blow down the LWCO.

    There usually isn't much rust forming unless new water is introduced.
    philsego
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,476
    I agree that the system should be tight, if your using water find out why and fix it.

    Do you know what the PH of your water is? If you can get it up to 8 or 9 that should lessen any rust, I've used Steamaster tablets for 4 years and any water I drain is clear with a slight purple tint and that water has been in there for 4 years.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    philsego
  • philsego
    philsego Member Posts: 23
    The system is very tight, although I haven't measured the makeup water. I use an autofiller because I travel during the winter for a few weeks at a time, and the system is the tenant's. (They don't have access to the boiler.)
    PH - 9 to 9.1 according to the city's website.
  • philsego
    philsego Member Posts: 23
    Is there any downside to adding steamaster tablets?
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,476
    If you ever have to replace that LWCO get one with a meter so you know how much water is going in. With PH that high it seems excess fresh water could be a likely culprit.

    I don't know of any downsides to using Steamaster but start out with just one tablet and see how it goes.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    philsego
  • philsego
    philsego Member Posts: 23
    Thanks everyone!
    To sum up: I'll replace the old rusty black pipes with (identical) new ones, clean the autofiller and LWCO, flush the system, and add one Steamaster tablet. Piece-of-cake!
    Enjoy the weekend!
    -- Phil
  • philsego
    philsego Member Posts: 23
    FYI - I had trouble finding Rectorseal 68732 Steamaster Tablets from my usual suppliers, but found them at FW Webb at a fair price. (FW Webb has branches thoughout the northeast USA). I'm picking them up; I don't know about shipping.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,455
    U can replace the piping with brass. Are you sure they are not brass? scrape the outside with a file to see or use a magnet