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Timco
Member Posts: 3,040
Comments
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Yeah, I bet that one was a blast probably 3 floors below grade. Is the header 3" & the supply 4"??
Never had a 5'wrench. If I can't do it with a 3 footer I'll weld it.
a stinger is a lot lighter than a 5' wrench LOL
Looks like your in a tight spot there0 -
All 5". Ties into building in 6".Just a guy running some pipes.0
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No wonder you needed the 5'!!0
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What a Beast!0
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Sure hope not. Not enough room for a bell reducer. The old one hammered so bad the boiler shook.Fred said:@Timco, is that bushing, in that elbow, on the horizontal, just before it goes up to the main going to hold water in that elbow and cause a problem? Maybe a little hammer?
Just a guy running some pipes.0 -
They didn't have a 6x5 in the valley. I'll look into shipping options Monday if you think that will be an issue.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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> @Timco said:
> @Timco, is that bushing, in that elbow, on the horizontal, just before it goes up to the main going to hold water in that elbow and cause a problem? Maybe a little hammer?
>
> Sure hope not. Not enough room for a bell reducer. The old one hammered so bad the boiler shook.
I totally agree with @Fred, possibly a reducing elbow if available.1 -
Fortunately it's not too hard to access if I have issues. I can always get one coming and plan on swapping it. There is good slope but it will catch some water.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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Well, it's 6" flanges and bush below bottom flange. Only option.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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Well, how does this look?Just a guy running some pipes.0
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No Picture0
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Won't load. Hmmmmm.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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Just a guy running some pipes.0 -
Looks great!0
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@Timco in the future, I'd suggest having the blowoff valve for the LWCO directly under the LWCO with a tee and run the bull of the tee back to the boiler. That way you'll get the float chamber emptying instead of drawing water out of the bottom of the boiler for your weekly blowdowns.0
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It's funny you mention that. I was thinking to myself just today that it seems like that will pull from the boiler. I had it as you say to be honest, left for parts, and my helpers changed it to as you see. Not too hard to fix. Thanks.Abracadabra said:@Timco in the future, I'd suggest having the blowoff valve for the LWCO directly under the LWCO with a tee and run the bull of the tee back to the boiler. That way you'll get the float chamber emptying instead of drawing water out of the bottom of the boiler for your weekly blowdowns.
Just a guy running some pipes.0 -
Very hard to tell from your photo angle where you re-installed the bushing? Or did you?0
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It right under that flange.0
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OK, glad it worked out? No leaks?0
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Heats great & silent! Returns hammer and I have a couple drips to fix.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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Drops due to the replied parts? Uggggghhhh0
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Are all the wet returns below the water line on this new boiler and any drips tied together below the water line? If not they are going to get steam and hammer .0
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Drips due to the replied parts? Uggggghhhh0
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Yep. Moved those joints a few times. It all comes apart tomorrow but it fits so I'm not building as I go.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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I call returns below the boiler wet. These are 1.5 & 2" and all three have new main vents. The hammer is 20' closer to condensate tank past main vents. These carry condensate and air. Tank is not vented, just a vac breaker.Fred said:Are all the wet returns below the water line on this new boiler and any drips tied together below the water line? If not they are going to get steam and hammer .
Just a guy running some pipes.0 -
Yes those are wet but steam must be getting in them from somewhere or they wouldn't hammer. There may be a hidden wet return somewhere that may be above the new boiler's water line???0
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All three come into the boiler room upper level, drop at their vent about a foot, then travel to next to the boiler on the upper level before coming together and dropping into the pit and drain to the collection box. Pics tomorrow.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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I think you'll find that they all need to drop into the pit individually and then come together and drain into the collection box. Otherwise you're passing steam from one return into another. That's where your hammer is coming from.0
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I'll post pics later. I'm really happy with these results. That old smith banged and actually moved on cold starts with that dead header and tie in 3". Garbage install. Mine is silent. Have to lower the LWCO too.Just a guy running some pipes.0
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What's your fav way to clean the oils from a new startup out?Just a guy running some pipes.0
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All the approaches, if done right yield the same result. It is a very slow process. Raise the water level until it just starts to dribble out of the skim port. close the port and bring the boiler water up to just below boiling. At that point, open the skim port and use the manual water supply valve to allow the water to dribble out of the skim port. By dribble, I mean a flow no larger than the diameter of a pencil. Use a 5 gallon bucket to catch the water. It tkaes at least an hour or two to fill a 5 gallon bucket. You need to drain several buckets full (four or five). When done, close the skim port, lower the water level in the boiler and fire it up. The boiler will need to be skimmed at least two or three more times, about a week or two apart to get all the oils out. I personally use a garden hose. If you can rig one up on the side of a five gallon bucket and run the hose over to a floor drain, I run the hose over to a floor drain, set the water dribble into the bucket and let it run over night. I don't have to be there to empty buckets that way.0
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The @Hatterasguy sliced-cap (tm) on the skim port speeds things up quite a bit. I made my own and I've hed pretty good results skimming a lgb-14 in less than 4 hours last week. Will probably do another skim next week but water line is damn stable after a single 4 hour skim.0
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