Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

pipe hangers for 3/4" copper

At first I thought the black hangers the installers used were plastic.
Plate screws to the ceiling and a threaded rod comes down and threads into the hanger that clamp around the 3/4" copper.
Well, I asked them to add couple more hangers to a section above the boiler that seemed a little wobbly and the clamps are copper.
So I took a closer look at the black ones and they are actually steel - maybe for black iron or steel pipes?
I am thinking this is not a good thing to use for hanging copper and will eventually start galvanic corrosion and turn green.

Should I ask them the change them out to copper clamps before signing off on the project?
About ten would need to be changed.

Also, the threaded rod that spans the hanger clamp seems to be some sort of shiny steel - is that a potential problem for the copper clamp? Or am I getting carried away here.

And finally - Is the threaded rod cut to length as needed for spanning the ceiling plate and clamp?
Installer left two plates mounted to the ceiling and rod that is too long and pressing down on the copper pipe.
I am hoping he is planning on returning to finish that.
Threading the rod as far as I could into the mounting plate did not help so I have a cloth separating the pipe and thread.

Comments

  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    To answer my own question...maybe the steel hangers will be ok and turns out the 'copper' split ring may actually be copper plated steel. There should not be any moisture present between the steel split ring and the copper pipe. If necessary I could simply wrap the pipe to isolate from the steel split ring.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 16,315
    Depending on the piping path you want to allow some movement as the pipes expand and contract. Maybe the threaded rod is long enough to allow that.
    A coated or rubber hanger surface that allows the pipe to slide is a nice approach for heating lines.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,007
    All hangers used with threaded rod are steel. Some are galvanized or plain black steel (for use on black pipe) hangers for copper tubing are now plastic coated.

    the hanger rods are steel. The hanger rods should be a tad short so they don't touch the copper.

    Many would use split ring type hangers for vertical pipe to secure it and stand it off a wall etc. On horizontal pipe clevis hangers or band hangers are preferred ut split rings can be used.
  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    Ed - thank you.

    When searching I did see the steel rings with copper plating that is epoxy coated. All copper hanger rings appear to be a thing of the past.
    And thank you for pointing out the detail on making sure the threaded rod is not touching the pipe which I suspect at least some of them may be doing this after they were adjusted for fit.

    Are the threaded rods cut to length and does this create any problems with getting it to mate with the female threads?
    Guess a clean cut with a Dremel or thin hack saw would work.

    Thanks again.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,007
    Yes, the threaded rods are usually sold in 6' lengths although other lengths are available. For 2" pipe and tubing and under 3/8" threaded rod is used. The threads are 3/8-16 NC (national coarse)

    Cutting with a hacksaw or Dremel is fine. Screw a nut on it first before cutting, the if the threads have a nick or a burr when you unthread the nut it will fix the threads.

    Some put a wrap of electrical tape around the tubing to prevent contact with the threaded rod, unnecessary in my opinion
  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    re - Screw a nut on it first before cutting, the if the threads have a nick or a burr when you unthread the nut it will fix the threads.

    Thank you for that great tip.
    I found several copper plated loops the installers used unnecessarily to support a pex line. I can rob those for some sections of copper pipe run that needs additional support.
    Another section of pipe that should be supported is under exposed floor framing and I can use wire and strap supports I have on hand.

    I do see some threaded rods that need to be turned or maybe shortened to prevent contact with the pipe.
  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    hot rod - missed your comment earlier. Thank you. I am mainly focused on sections of the pipe that very obviously are drooping and easily bounced without support. Mainly concerned about the sweated joints failing.
  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    edited January 2017
    Ed - I looked up clevis hangers and I see one advantage to those on horizontal pipes. Pipe insulation could be fitted and get through the hangers if they are 1" to allow room for insulation on 3/4" . Not possible with split ring unless severely oversized.
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,007
    Normally for heating the insulation is cut around the hangers. But you can oversize the hangers and run the insulation through the hanger if you want. Doesn't matter if clevis, split ring or band hangers
  • swvawethead
    swvawethead Member Posts: 143
    Thank you Ed - for now just have to make sure they finished the job of attaching two more hangers to rods that have nothing on them. Yes, oversize them so insulation can slip through.