Dunkirk Indirect questions

GW

I've installed a gazillion HTP SSU. I am not tickled how the cold enters the bottom, the extra time needed to pipe down, etc. Leakage rate is OK, maybe one out of 25-30, just an off the cuff guess.

Any scoop on the Dunkirk H20I**DK series? I dig the top taps and the installed drain.

Whats the warranty, tank material?

Thanks, G

kcopp

The older units were Bock glass lined tanks... these clearly look like Re-badged Heat-Flow tanks.

hot_rod

It does look like HeatFlo. Even their dual coil tanks have all the connections out then top, very handy.

With any stainless tank, pay close attention to water quality, especially chlorides.

Here is an example of water quality spec from HeatFlo.

GW

Ahh cool what's the scoop on Heat Flo?

kcopp

I have installed one under warranty. It looked just ok. The insulation was a soft type foam as opposed to the typical spray foam on most tanks. The connections and overall dimensions were good.
Have you tried the HTP SS Pro? I have done a bunch and it has all the Domestic connections up top.
Bradford White has an indirect that also has a similar set up. Its definitely heavier... 3 anodes though and the lifetime warranty.

GW

Cool never heard of the SS pro. I'll look into that and the Bradford While

GW

Hot Rod what might be defined as hard water? I am trying to build up my small clause verbiage

hot_rod

Currently HTP has one of the best water quality specs that I have seen for their PRO series. Stainless materials are sensitive to that chloride level.

Also if a water softener is used, that will add sodium in the ion exchange process and usually drives the TDS number up. The softener will reduce limescale problems removing calcium and magnesium, but it substitutes or exchanges (ion exchange) the brine (sodium) component to remove the scaling ions.

All boiler and indirect installer should invest in PH and TDS meters, since warranties claims are being scrutinized closer these days when you have a failure. A couple hundred bucks, or less buy a set of good quality digital meters. You can buy a combo TDS/ PH meter.

Here is the meter I use.

I'd also tag every boiler and indirect installation with that info after you test the water. Just as you would with the CO report print out.

It shows the customer and next service person that you have checked and documented the water quality.

GW

very cool thanks

hot_rod

Important also is knowing the hotter you run the tanks, the more mineral precipitation. Above 140F it really increases.

Scale build up reduces efficiency and shortens the tank life.
I've heard that every 20° increase of temperature, corrosion potential doubles.

Under-sizing indirects to save $$, then cranking up the temperature can lead to a shorter life expectancy.

The glass/ steel indirects like to stay below 180 to limit that thermal stress on the lining.

Commercial WH die young due to high operating temperature, driving mineral precipitation, and large burners impinging on the sediment in collecting at the bottom of the tank.

The anti legionella prevention methods of elevating tanks to 150- 160 on a daily basis will undoubtedly have an effect on WH life.

billtwocase

I have used 2 so far with excellent results. These are not soft jackets which is one of the pluses