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Balancing steam heat with radiator vents?

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JedinRI
JedinRI Member Posts: 16
All,

I recently had a new Burnham natural gas-fired steam boiler installed, to replace our (very) old oil system. So far so good (minus a couple of issues with skimming, etc.)

My question is: what is the best way for me to "balance" the heat throughout our home. (I.e. make sure it gets warm when and where we want.)

A bit about the system: it's a one pipe steam system; one big "main" loop in the basement" with pipes coming off of that main loop to each of the 10 individual radiators. We have 5 radiators on the first floor, and 5 on the second floor. One thermostat, located downstairs.

I have the valves all the way open on each radiator, and will be checking to make sure they're all sloped (and draining) properly.

A couple of the radiators on the second floor (in our bedroom) are slower to warm up. When it's really cold, it's less of an issue, when the system is generating a lot of steam.

My plan is to install adjustable radiator vents on the rads that don't currently have them. Then, I'm thinking I can tweak each of the vents to make some of the downstairs rads heat up a bit more slowly, which would (in theory?) push more steam to the rads further away from the boiler if those valves are fully open.

Thoughts? Appreciate any advice. Again, the system works well for the most part...just trying to get it totally "dialed in" for maximum comfort.

Comments

  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Your approach is the correct way to approach balancing, after you make sure you have good venting on that main, in the basement. Vent the main first and then fine tune each rad.
    JedinRIMilanD
  • JedinRI
    JedinRI Member Posts: 16
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    Thanks. The main seems to be sufficiently vented. (There's a functioning vent on the main loop, opposite (furthest from) the boiler.) It definitely expels air when the unit is running, so I'm assuming it's sufficient. Radiators on the first floor heat up fairly quickly.

    I also keep the water level a bit above half - assuming it is more efficient to boil 3 gallons of water than 5. (Note: I have a low-water shut off, and an automatic water feeder.)
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,739
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    JedinRI said:

    Thanks. The main seems to be sufficiently vented. (There's a functioning vent on the main loop, opposite (furthest from) the boiler.) It definitely expels air when the unit is running, so I'm assuming it's sufficient. Radiators on the first floor heat up fairly quickly.

    I also keep the water level a bit above half - assuming it is more efficient to boil 3 gallons of water than 5. (Note: I have a low-water shut off, and an automatic water feeder.)

    It's not really a question of if a main vent is there and it's working, it's the amount of venting that you have. What size and type of vent is it (pictures if you aren't sure)? How long and what size is the main? You have to work from how much pipe needs vented and figure up how much venting from that. If you post the information we can help you out.
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • JedinRI
    JedinRI Member Posts: 16
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    JedinRI said:


    My plan is to install adjustable radiator vents on the rads that don't currently have them. Then, I'm thinking I can tweak each of the vents to make some of the downstairs rads heat up a bit more slowly, which would (in theory?) push more steam to the rads further away from the boiler if those valves are fully open.

    Good plan.

    Here's your valve:

    http://www.hvacrsupplynow.com/VENT-RITE-1-STEAM-AIR-VALVES-ADJUSTABLE_p_1787.html
    I just picked up a few of these from the local big box store:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Durst-1-8-Adjustable-Angle-Steam-Radiator-Vent-Air-Valve/3457212

    I'm assuming they'll work well.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 15,716
    edited January 2017
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    Oh no,
    Not Worst, I mean Durst vents.

    Send them back and buy a decent vent, such as the one Hat recommended. Personally, I like Gortons but they aren't adjustable and will take a lot of swapping / buying extras etc.

    The one Hat recommended is considered the best by many on the forum and to be honest, is a steal at $18 each.

    Those Durst vents will be a complete loss. Not only will they be too slow, they won't last either. You'll regret it later.

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
    HatterasguyJedinRIMilanD1Matthias
  • RomanGK_26986764589
    RomanGK_26986764589 Member Posts: 229
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    @ChrisJ I still have one Durst vent remaining on one of my rads. It's been there for 8 years or so. Still works very well (except the clicking noise when it closes on steam). I guess they made them better back then.
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,478
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    The problem with the Durst vents is the quality is all over the lot so it's the luck of the draw. Also they don't really adjust so if you need that feature your SOL.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    MilanD
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    JedinRI said:


    I just picked up a few of these from the local big box store:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Durst-1-8-Adjustable-Angle-Steam-Radiator-Vent-Air-Valve/3457212

    I'm assuming they'll work well.

    Worst vents ever. I've had vents like that split down the side on pressure less than 1.5psi.
    MilanDRomanGK_26986764589
  • JedinRI
    JedinRI Member Posts: 16
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    Thanks everybody. I'm going to buy 10 of the Vent-Rite adjustable vents suggested above, install those, make sure the radiators are properly sloped, and see how that works - and then adjust with minor tweaks to individual rads over time until I get it dialed in.