Anyone have any tips on

Harvey Ramer

getting the most out of a waste oil burner as far as combustion is concerned? 3 things to play with, oil pressure, air pressure and air band setting. As far the analyzer, would #6 oil setting get me good Info?

Harvey Ramer

Bump,

Anyone ever get the chance to play around with these units?

billtwocase

What unit Harvey? I have worked on a couple of them. Not one of my favorites. Clean Burn is OK. They need frequent servicing

Harvey Ramer

I'm not sure of the model. It has 2 regs on the oil side. It injects oil to the nozzle at only a couple psi. It also has a regulator for air that injects somewhere close to the nozzle. Then it also has the air band adjustments like a normal burner.

I have to put a bigger power venter on. The 4" one they have on doesn't create enough draft.

You think the setting for #6 oil on the analyzer would give me any useful data for setting up the burner? I don't know what to expect for the combustion products.

Big Ed_4

Waste oil Heaters are designed to burn hot to burn the waste to an ash .. Efficacy in that way rather then oil usage .. Smoke test , btu input ,CO and draft should be the concern ...

How they work , Oil is pumped up to burner , There will be several filers, strainers among the way and in the tank .The oil will flow though heaters as to thin it out . Once all heaters are properly heated its ready to fire . At the nozzle the compressed air and oil are joined at the nozzle separated by an O ring .. The compressed air goes though the nozzle around the swirl pin ( which does not swirl )atomizes the oil to fine droplets as the oil comes out of the center of the swirl pin ..

Either air is supplied using the shops air supply or some come with its own metered small compressor . Reznor comes with compressor Clean Burn it's an option ,

I normally work on Reznor which their pumps are designed for that unit to deliver proper metered oil and. Some of the others use pressure bypasses with set point pressures . Oil passages are always an concern and main problem with these heaters .. Shops forget to shut them off when not in use ,which bakes the oil down to dry crud or just plain normal build up after a few years. High supply pressure is the clue to this problem, metered pumps 50# or better heaters and passages need to be clean ... On bypass pumps higher then normal start point supply pressure, to get an decent fire or to fire at all ..... On the cheaper models like Lenair .. their heater nozzle block can not be cleaned and is recommended to replace once a year ..For a few dollars more you can buy and replace the whole burner ..

First thing to check on these units is the fire .. It should be a full clean fire with out butterflies .. two thirds down the pike with a nice glow..


Yes the passages need to be cleaned , in an normal auto shop and car dealer bags of ash ,


Normally you need minimum 8' vertical chimney with minimal horizontal run . Longer the horizontal Then taller the vertical . Rule of thumb 1/3 .. I would rather instal an taller chimney then use a draft inducer but every job is different .

FranklinD

Well shoot. I had a nice reply typed out and it only posted the first paragraph when I hit "post". I'll try again later...gotta go pick up the kids. Sorry about that.

hot_rod

I installed a handful of the Clean Burn boilers. Lots of maintenance. Keep the oil clean as possible. Sometimes antifreeze gets in drain oil, not good

We had trouble burning synthetic oils. Had to crank up pre heater temperatures

The ash is nasty stuff wear a respirator when you clean them out

A buffer is a must in zoned systems

billtwocase

Just an FYI, on Clean Burn units anyway, don't be turning the power/emergency switch off during the heating/use season. The pre-heaters don't activate that quickly or effectively. Many problems I found was the switch would be turned off end of the day, and turned back on at start up. Not good results