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Spill Switch
TMcCray
Member Posts: 1
Hi, I'm a low skill handyman (just around my own house). I say that because I have no training in HVAC.
I have a HearthStone Tuscon Gas-Fired B-Vent Room Heater, propane. It is about 5 years old. Has a blower as well. It has worked fine until this season. I'm almost positive the spill switch is opening, as usually before the fan would kick on I hear a click and the flame and pilot go out. It is connected to an outside chimney with some 4-in pipe. The flue is all clear. I didn't have a multimeter to check the switch and it was riveted onto the draft hood. I proceeded to try and remove the switch and ended up damaging it.
Two questions: 1) I jumped over the spill switch and the stove ran fine (I only did this for a minute or so - it is turned off at the moment). However, I'm thinking now that that if the spill switch were bad (broken, stuck open), the stove would not light at all. Is this correct? Maybe it is the fan thermostat not kicking on in time?
2) To replace the switch I found one that is rated the same (L200-40F) but is not from the manufacturer, as they want $20 shipping on a tiny part). Would it be advisable to shell out the money or would the other one suffice? The other one I found says "open at 200F", which is basically what the old one did, right? It appears to be a manual switch, no reset.
Thanks,
Tristan
I have a HearthStone Tuscon Gas-Fired B-Vent Room Heater, propane. It is about 5 years old. Has a blower as well. It has worked fine until this season. I'm almost positive the spill switch is opening, as usually before the fan would kick on I hear a click and the flame and pilot go out. It is connected to an outside chimney with some 4-in pipe. The flue is all clear. I didn't have a multimeter to check the switch and it was riveted onto the draft hood. I proceeded to try and remove the switch and ended up damaging it.
Two questions: 1) I jumped over the spill switch and the stove ran fine (I only did this for a minute or so - it is turned off at the moment). However, I'm thinking now that that if the spill switch were bad (broken, stuck open), the stove would not light at all. Is this correct? Maybe it is the fan thermostat not kicking on in time?
2) To replace the switch I found one that is rated the same (L200-40F) but is not from the manufacturer, as they want $20 shipping on a tiny part). Would it be advisable to shell out the money or would the other one suffice? The other one I found says "open at 200F", which is basically what the old one did, right? It appears to be a manual switch, no reset.
Thanks,
Tristan
0
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