Cleaning Steam Boiler as per Manufacturer Instructions

edeega01

Hi All,
Just purchased a 1929 house with a 2010 Burnham Independence Gas Fired Steam Boiler. The water in the gauge glass is brown and water droplets in glass, so I figure the boiler needs a cleaning. The manual states to boil out my boiler for 5 hours with boil-out compound. I was going to use TSP. However, I have read you should not introduce chemicals into the piping system as it will bring back sludge and sediment to the boiler. I attached the manufacturer instructions. Should I follow the instructions? Will the "high pressure spray wash" called in the final step remove all the sediment and sludge after the boil out?

Ed

BobC

Some installers don't include the cost (mostly time) to do a good skim so it never gets done.

It depends on how bad the water is. Try draining the boiler and refilling it a couple of times. Then do a nice slow skim and see how things look. You may have to repeat the skimming a few times.

If the water is still filthy you should build a wand and use it to clean out the boiler and see how that works.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1tw9rz-pUk

If the water is still murkey, use some TSP or washing soda to clean it out.

There is nothing wrong with using TSP or washing soda, just make sure you rinse it all out when your done.

Bob

edeega01

Thanks Bob. This weekend I tried to install a skim port setup. The factory plug seems to be frozen. I tried with a long pipe wrench and not budging. I also tried to remove the LWC probe to clean and that is not budging either. Any more force and I think my boiler would crack. Any tips on how to loosen the threads? BTW I'm in Lynbrook, Long Island if there are any good steam men in the area. The guy I hired for annual maintenance doesn't seem to know squat about steam.

BobC

What size wrench are you using and are you using a helper on it?

Those plugs can be very tough, the factory goes crazy when installing them. Try to chip away any sealing compound you can see on that plug and then hit it with a little PB blaster. Give it a few days and try again, if it doesn't work try a little more PB. If push comes to shove it might be worth hiring someone to do it for you.

Bob

edeega01

18" Pipe wrench. I will try but it is a pain to take off the wiring and the sheetmetal enclosure to get to the plug. I may have to wait till spring or hire someone before the wife kills me. Thank you for your help.

Abracadabra

you need something bigger than an 18" wrench. if it were me, i'd go with a 36" and a cheater on it

edeega01

Your right. I think I was using a 24" but still not enough. I think I need heavier iron in my arsenal.

EBEBRATT-Ed

24" with a 3'pc of emt thinwall electrical conduit with the end egg shaped.

it's a lot lighter and easier to handle. That's why I always use a nipple and a cap, you have two threads which means two chances to get it apart

Danny Scully

Good morning @edeega01, my name is Danny Scully and I operate Scully's Plumbing with my brother and father. Our shop is located in Lynbrook. Check us out at http://www.scullysplumbing.com. Hopefully we can schedule a day/time for us to come help you out!

edeega01

@Danny Scully - Thanks for the message. Good to know someone is close by. I will also reach out at some point to discuss replacement of wet return and larger taps for main vents. House is a mess right now with other renovations.

@EBEBRATT-Ed - How do I make then end of the conduit egg shaped?

EBEBRATT-Ed

@edeega01 put the EMT on the floor and egg shape 1 end with a hammer. It will slide over the bottom knob of a 2' Ridgid pipewrench and slide up the handel and when the handel widens it will lock there