15 seconds .... Recycle(60sec) ....runs

burnerman_2

Ok Just reread Almost all Sorry Steamhead If it's Firing then losing flame recycle Then I'd put an OIL watch on it look for air bubbles If it has a loose Fitting and you have quite a few as said I'd run one line from tank to burner any time you have a brass nut a place for air tell oil company to put a clear tube on suction line and watch the oil flow

hedgehodge

I hate life right now. I'm on vacation now for a week and two days with this into vacation. 6 visits ........ guess I'll clean up more leaves while wait on them to show again.

He wants to swap out zone heads tomorrow. I mean sure , all this stuff for free etc but ugh! Still same issue.

Is it possible my burner is bad from all the possible water in lines from when they sludged over?

He removed the lines to replace that pump and they were re tightened and he removed that old line that was left and had a compression fitting at filter, gave a new firematic valve by filter and a spin on filter.

burnerman_2

I'd still lean towards air/ if it has flame established then flame goes out either slipping coupler or lose of prime which a 2 pipe system self primes and relights

EBEBRATT-Ed

a 3/8" flare refrigeration sight glass in the oil line will show bubbles

hedgehodge

The thing is this though....with a primary that has a 15 second it does it at 15 seconds, but went into recycle for safety since a newer model I guess. It also does it at 30 seconds with the older primary but no recycle.

If it was air in the lines then why does it wait until exactly 15 or 30 seconds, depending on the primary that is used.

This leads me to believe it isn't air.

again, I'm not an expert at all, but feel it would be more around the same time if it was air or more intermittent and not exactly at 15 or 30 seconds

He also bled it when he swapped out that compression fitting with a see through hose about a little longer than a foot long.

hedgehodge

I was trying to figure out the volume of oil in a 3/8" line and calculate the gpm to see if it was possibly pulling in air at that second firematic valve based off seconds and footage to the valve but it wouldn't make sense if it changed primary then did it 15 seconds in.

in the new burner VS old I also think I went higher gpm with new pump ? Which means the times are still constant even though more fuel is being pulled through?

I just want this fixed lol

hedgehodge

This was a long read but if you "find" function on this first page

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/gas-oil-home-heating-furnaces/438186-oil-burning-furnace-bad-ignitor.html#b

And find this post- "1.) Nozzle to Tip Spacing:" -- he describes my issue

/crosses fingers for tomorrow

billtwocase

They need to remove the OSV, and make it a one pipe system to start. Case closed on the supply problem, then put a clean-cut pump, Beckett control, and set the burner up properly. I will add that this boiler is on my list of least favorable for noise level and design, but that is not your problem here

hedgehodge

Sorry I thought it was an osv, it's a firematic. X2.

Yeah this boiler scares the crap out of me when it turns on now, esp without an oil delay valve as warning when doing laundry.

Oil delay valve saves me from puffbacks? I feel less safe without one, should I be worried or be less paranoid?

hedgehodge

Okay, sooo, I never expected to be right since no idea. I still cannot make sense of why it does it at 15 seconds and 30 with older one but...I had tech, when replaced aquastat, cool the system off. We cranked it on and it replicated it.

Maybe I didn't make it clear to him but I said it sounded like the flame went out....we saw the flame go out and kick back on.

With the newer primary on there all we saw was after 15 seconds it went into recycle so of course the flame stopped.

Hence as everyone here has stated...AIR.

Called up guy who did tank install and I told him EVERYTHING was replaced and he was like, "yeah I guess it is air being pulled in from somewhere", again as you all said. When he said "from somewhere" I know exactly from where, the only old piece left, that damn other firematic

Asked for install price of tigerloop and tank guy said like 300- oil company said 600.

Tank guy is coming out tomorrow.

Going to tell him to use the return line that doesn't have a second firematic as the supply and switch at tank. Install a valve outside for leaks at top of tank or no? Then the tigerloop with spin on filter and flex pipes for supply and return from tiger to pump right? Of course I'll bring it up only if I don't see it--so doesn't get pissed like I'm telling him how to do his job lol

Thanks all--at least a lot of new stuff--I still don't like the concept of no delayed oil valve and a 45 second cutout on that primary....should I worry?

STEVEusaPA

You need a different 'guy'. We don't discuss pricing but you're oil company should be ashamed of themselves.

burnerman_2

or you could just run one line ... No flares Tank to Filter to pump the Tiger loop will fix it. But a copper one piece should be cheaper and Tank installer should be able to Flare and have no air leaks

hedgehodge

Soooo, it was one flare that got doped and fixed the issue , HOWEVER , now it sounds like a jet engine when it's running and when it turns off.

Not sure what he is doing Monday but he's coming back, maybe a tigerloop