Broke the pigtail

SteamedInWharton

I finally got around to replacing the steel pigtail with a brass one. I also had wanted to add a union for the pressuretrol and room for both the 0-15 and 0-3 gauges.

Unfortunately I used a little too much effort removing the old pigtail. The pigtail itself broke off leaving about half the threads in the boiler. I don't remember it being hard to remove last year.

What can I do to get the old threads out without breaking the boiler. I can go in with one of my needle files (the triangle is nice and sharp) and try to section it. My hacksaws won't fit.

Is there something I can get tomorrow at Home Despot or Horror Freight that will help me?

Fortunately, it's warm here tonight so I have some time.

adambnyc

Was the pigtail screwed directly into a tapping on the boiler or was it screwed into a bushing? Most boilers I've seen don't have the pigtail directly into a 1/4" tapping on the boiler. The tapping is usually larger, like 3/4 with a reducer that the pigtail is screwed into. If that's the case, you might consider changing out the bushing/reducer instead of the steady handed surgery your about to perform.

SteamedInWharton

I took a close look at the boiler (Utica PEG-C series) and manual. It seems to be tapped into a raised, round area on the section.

I gave it some extra PB blaster tonight, will add some more tomorrow and go out and get a pipe nipple extractor.

Worse comes to worse, there's enough meat there that I can drill and tap a larger size and bush down.

adambnyc

Looks like I was wrong. The manual shows a 3/32 tap directly on the boiler. I'd go with your original plan to carefully file that out but let's see what the pros think.

Leon82

An extractor may work if you can get the right size. But even those run he risk of snapping.

If you section it try to keep the file straight so you don't groove he top threads

Koan

Maybe an extractor, but first heat the mounting boss around where the hole is if you have access. Immediately after you could also try hitting the remaining threads after heating the mounting boss with an upside down can of keyboard cleaner or a wet flux brush to cool just the threads just before driving the extractor in.

SteamedInWharton

The Home Depot extractor didn't work. It bottomed out before the threads could bite.

I may try using a few drillbits (< 7/16, which is the tap drill size for 1/4NPT and see if that works).

Leon82

Can you sand the end of the extractor so it'll go a little deeper?

Hap_Hazzard

If this type of nipple extractor

didn't work, see if you can find one of these:

or one of these
If that doesn't work, you need a 1/4" x 18 NPT tap and a 7/16 drill.

SteamedInWharton

I'm out of town on business at the moment (fortunately, there's no risk of pipes freezing and I'm not suffering from lack of heat by being elsewhere).
I spoke with my dad the other night and he also suggested the same type of bolt extractor. I will try it when I get home.

I do have a 1/4" NPT tap and all sizes of bit up to 1/2 in 64ths intervals.

Worse comes to worse, I'll get the 3/8th tap and the reduced shank drill and drill up/bush down.

Fred

Not much chance of freezing on a steam system. All the pipes are empty except whatever wet returns you have in the basement and the boiler but if those are in the basement, not likely to get cold enough down there to freeze anything. One of the benefits of steam over a hot water system.

Sailah

Just a word of caution regarding extractors like the above, coming from a machinist. They are hardened, brittle and break when you least expect it. If it breaks off your job just got 10 times harder.

It's a bit of an artform to know exactly how much torque to apply, especially the smaller ones. And by their very nature they exert (additional) pressure the more you apply.

I would do the Kroil (the absolute best) trick for a week in advance. Yes Kroil is expensive. Yes it's worth it. I treasure my 2 cans of Kroil in the garage, and just like Elaine on Seinfeld I have this conversation in my head:

me "So bolt, are you Kroil-worthy?"

bolt "Yes I think I'm Kroil-worthy, I think I'm very Kroil-worthy."

me "Run down your case for my one more time..."

bolt "I'm rusted to hell in here, no one applied anti-seize to me. I've been corroded, galled and stuck in here since the Nixon administration. And if I can be quite honest, I'm going to give you one chance to score and if you don't, we're breaking it off"

me "OK let's go"

squirt squirt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfDyOyrY-zM

Paul48

From another machinist..........On something thin, like you have there, ez-outs and the like can also spread what's left in the hole. Use the penetrating oil, and if you are using a tapered extractor, don't hammer it in hard. If it won't bite in, tap it with the hammer, while turning with the wrench. Patience, and a soft touch will "get 'er done".