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Seal off radiator

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chaznied
chaznied Member Posts: 39
edited October 2016 in THE MAIN WALL
Hi,

I have a radiator that needs a new valve. Would it be a bad idea to just remove the knob and seal the leak and leaving it without the knob for the winter?

Thanks in advance

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  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    Where is it leaking? a lot of times you can just tighten up the nut, under the knob a little and stop a leak around the valve stem. Most plumbing houses carry a packing kit for those valves also. In any case, you can take the knob off and leave it off. if it is a one pipe steam system, make sure the valve is fully open before taking the knob off.
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    Thanks for your reply. So then, if I successfully seal the leak, I should have no issues is that correct? Why have knobs at all? To turn off heat to unused rooms?
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,739
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    I looked at your other post and you only showed a picture of the valve stem, but I didn't see the plug on the end. Is that still in the valve? If so just sealing it up won't solve your problem. If that plug is still in there the valve is (sort of) closed. What will happen is it will somewhat heat, but the condensate won't be able to get back through the closed valve (I am assuming 1 pipe steam). Eventually you will fill the radiator up with water, or get to a point it will stop heating. The valves on one pipe steam should be wide open all the time.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Globe_valve
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    Thanks KC_Jones,

    Would this be dangerous or just not efficient? I don't know when i'd be able to fix this and I have a little one so if it should get cold all of a sudden, i'd like to put some heat on.

    And thanks for clarifying why the knob just kept turning, the plug is still in there.
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,739
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    It's not dangerous, but it may stop heating completely after a while. It could also make noise, cause water hammer etc. I'm curious, have you gotten a new valve yet? Have you tried getting the old one off?
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    No and no. I asked in my other post about getting it off. Sounds like it's going to be a struggle. The plan is to get it off then bring the old one to homedepot or lowes to compare to make sure I get the right one. See any flaws in my plan? Any suggestions?

    By the way, I shined a light down the opened valve hole and I didn't see anything just blackness, if the plug was there wouldn't it be obvious? I have no idea how old this is as I bought the house in June
  • Sailah
    Sailah Member Posts: 826
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    I always find the times I try and do things half **** it makes the real repair longer and more expensive. Home Depot and Lowes won't have that valve. I'll send you one gratis if you agree to try and fix it right. No sense spending time and effort to fix it halfway. Just my opinion.

    If you want a valve I need to know the pipe size, looks like 3/4"?

    You may get lucky and the tailpiece will mate with the new valve.

    With the knowledge on this board and some effort you'll get it out.
    Peter Owens
    SteamIQ
    CanuckerSWEI
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    This is a dumb question but, is there a way to verify the size of the valve other than measuring, I know most people with some experience can eyeball it but I don't trust my lack of experience to eyeball
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    A ruler or tape measure laid on the floor against the pipe so we can see the numbers....with an inch mark to the left side of the pipe.
    Also if you have the tailors/sewing tape measure, measure the circumference around the pipe as a redundant guide for us.
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    Here you go, hope this is clear enough
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    It is a little cockeyed for my old vision.
    I want to say it is 1", but wait for more input.
    There is a fair amount of paint on the pipe that adds to the thickness. If you could scrap the paint down to the steel and try another picture.
    3/4" pipe is just a bit larger than a quarter (25 cent) coin.
    1" is the next size up and a quarter will just fit inside of it.
    If you get the paint off do another picture with a quarter laying straight in front of it.
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
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    I'd put my money on 1"
    Canucker
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    so 1" it is?
    JUGHNE
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    1" pipe thread
  • chaznied
    chaznied Member Posts: 39
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    So just an update -

    I came up with a "bandaid" for the time being. I got a round piece of rubber, a small washer with a tiny hole and an O ring to seal the valve nut. I filled my system and fired it up and so far no leak, there's no heat from that radiator but I've got heat. Hopefully this will get me through the winter until I can take it apart myself and replace the valve.

    Is there any obvious issues i'm not seeing?

    Thanks for your help i'm sure come spring i'll be back asking for more help

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