OK to hang boiler on pressure treated plywood?
I read that pressure treated wood is extremely corrosive to steel and aluminum. what I read suggested there would be no problem as long as a barrier was placed between the wood and the metal. What do the heating professionals say?
1. Is it ok to mount the boiler on pressure treated plywood?
2. If so, what would be a good barrier to place between any contact points from the boiler to plywood?
3. Are there any potential issues with off gassing from the treated plywood to be concerned about with the boiler or near boiler copper piping?
4. anything else I should know about, consider doing or using?
any help would be greatly appreciated
Comments
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I certainly would like to install it somewhere else, however it's not really feasible at this time. I've not used a hygrometer down there so I don't know how much moister is in the air at times. I will say that I was really surprised to see the mold on the plywood, or at least so fast. The 160 year old first floor joist and subfloor are not covered in mold. so why the plywood molded so fast i do not know.kcopp said:Beyond the nasty plywood and reactions between the PT and the boiler... how about having a boiler w/ sensitive electronics being installed in a damp basement? Is there a better drier place?
I could monitor the moister and run a dehumidifier down there to keep it within acceptable levels for the boiler. it's not horrifically damp down there, I've been in much damper basements that's for sure.
So it would be safe to say that professionals would warn against installing over treated plywood?
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Well any treated wood would/could outgas. I wonder if you should just take the plywood off, clean, replace, and prime it on all sides with Kilz, then paint it. Make sure it doesn't touch the floor and leave an air space at the top.
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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I usually paint all the wood w/ a good porch/ floor enamel.
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The old wood is likely old growth wood, which is more resistant to mold than the modern plywood that had the mold. Definitely run a dehumidifier in warm and humid conditions.Bill751 said:The 160 year old first floor joist and subfloor are not covered in mold. so why the plywood molded so fast i do not know.
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Painting had briefly crossed my mind but for whatever reason I really didn't give it much more thought once I started considering using treated wood. I do think painting sounds like a good solution. I'll probably just buy some new plywood and go that route. Thank you for suggestionSTEVEusaPA said:Well any treated wood would/could outgas. I wonder if you should just take the plywood off, clean, replace, and prime it on all sides with Kilz, then paint it. Make sure it doesn't touch the floor and leave an air space at the top.
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NO, if not for the sake of anything else the boiler cabinet. That's why you use special triple coated screws for pt wood. Even then they get ate up after years.
Couple the pt with a humid environment where the wood will never lose some of the treatment like in outdoor applications.0 -
I've been using Yellawood treated lumber it is approved for use in gardens and exposed framing. It's not as toxic as the earlier treated lumber. Standard galvanized fasteners, or stainless work fine. Scraps can be burned or put in landfills.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I think this would be a good solution to the problem. Nothing else is covered in mold. so once painted plywood should be fine. I'm going to start monitoring the basement humidity with a wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometer setup. outdoor transmitter placed in the basement of course. I'll have to do some quick research on the allowable levels for the boiler and go from there. Thank you for the suggestions and pointing out concernskcopp said:I usually paint all the wood w/ a good porch/ floor enamel.
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My cellar gets very humid in the summer, for years I used a dehumidifier but as electric rates went up (now 19.5 cents per kwh) I looked for an alternative. I installed a 4-1/2" muffin fan into a pane of a cellar window (now a lucite pane) - problem solved.
I cover the fan in the late fall and remove that cover in the late spring.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
hot rod said:
I've been using Yellawood treated lumber it is approved for use in gardens and exposed framing. It's not as toxic as the earlier treated lumber. Standard galvanized fasteners, or stainless work fine. Scraps can be burned or put in landfills.
It's all safe until 10 years later.......
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Most lumber we get today is not dried very well. Could it be that your plywood was of high moisture content when it went into the basement. If you could leave a piece out in the sun & wind for a while it may dry out enough to not have a mold issue.
Of course it may warp like hell.0 -
Exactly the reason I haven't ran a dehumidifier down there yet. At one point I had one running in another area and was surprised how much it cost a month. I used a Kill A Watt meter to confirm the usage. I like the fan idea and will definitely look to go that route with the new boiler being down there. Thanks for the suggestionBobC said:My cellar gets very humid in the summer, for years I used a dehumidifier but as electric rates went up (now 19.5 cents per kwh) I looked for an alternative. I installed a 4-1/2" muffin fan into a pane of a cellar window (now a lucite pane) - problem solved.
I cover the fan in the late fall and remove that cover in the late spring.
Bob0 -
It did not seem overly damp when I bought it/ cut it. but there could have been a little in it. It is a little damp down there so I think I'll just go with the painting idea to be sure it doesn't happen again. ThanksJUGHNE said:Most lumber we get today is not dried very well. Could it be that your plywood was of high moisture content when it went into the basement. If you could leave a piece out in the sun & wind for a while it may dry out enough to not have a mold issue.
Of course it may warp like hell.0 -
Thanks Everyone for the replies.0
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Good old school pressure treated wood was never considered "safe". But it was good for it's intended purpose.Gordy said:hot rod said:I've been using Yellawood treated lumber it is approved for use in gardens and exposed framing. It's not as toxic as the earlier treated lumber. Standard galvanized fasteners, or stainless work fine. Scraps can be burned or put in landfills.
It's all safe until 10 years later.......
I've heard the modern stuff is safe, but isn't very good as far as lasting.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Chromium Copper Arsenate (CCA)was considered safer when it first hit the market Back in the 30s. There were never any real warnings on its hazards until early 80's.
Yella Lumber says you can burn, but only in an incinerator.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromated_copper_arsenate0
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