Removing compression tanks - tricks? tools?

rlaggren

The tank wants to stay and at the moment it's stronger than me. Good defensive position because there's not enough room beneath the make-up water fixture and the top of the tank to get a wrench on it. I suppose I could give it a bear hug but I would need the 3rd and 4th hand to counter torque - and even than it's not clear who would win.

Just wondering. Thinking some kind of strap wrench?

Rufus

Tinman

What kind of wrench are you using? Pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches have wide jaws compared to open end wrenches.
If there truly isn't room for a wrench (I have my doubts), then it was twisted on by hands.

hot_rod

Are you trying to go around an 18" diameter tank? You can build a strap wrench with any piece of webbing. I use my motorcycle tie downs, or a web tow strap if I need a large "soft" wrench.

A loop on the end, thread through the loop and pull the opposite direction on the web.

If there are other connections on the tank, use them as another wrench. Have two taps out the end of the tank? Thread a 2X4 through those as a wrench.

Solid_Fuel_Man

I like to use an old automotive serpentine belt and a pair of wide jaw vice grips. Slip the belt around the tank, and clamp with the vice grips. You will now have a handle to tug on. Have not broken a belt yet, they have Kevlar in them.

Taylor

SWEI

rlaggren said:

there's not enough room beneath the make-up water fixture and the top of the tank to get a wrench on it.

We use a tappet wrench on the tank flats and a pipe wrench or large adjustable wrench on the other fitting.

hot_rod

This may work if it is the type with the ends dished in. And you don't mind abusing a pipe wrench

rlaggren

Hey, thanks for the thoughts! That wrench on the rim just makes my plumber's heart go pitty pat! So perfect. So eeevil.



There's the tank. hotrod made me realize I hadn't checked _under_ it for something to grab. Might be something down there. Keep that in reserve.

I tried w/a 6" steel pipe wrench which I use for stuff like this but it won't fit under the filler - might be 1/2" clearance, maybe. Can't see any threads, looks like it was tightened wayyyy in there. Didn't see flats but maybe there. Doubt a crescent would hold enough to do the job, though.

I _like_ the serpentine belt idea!!! But most of the auto trash was cleared out years ago. Looks like webbing and a piece of 2x4 for a handle. Hope I can move it w/out creasing the thing. It probably needs replacing, but kinda nice to leave it intact until I know...

But boy, you know, thinking about that serpentine... Use two vise grips and get balanced torque. Put the B in law on the the filler w/a cheater. I think maybe I'm headed for the local car store.

Rufus

rick in Alaska

That is a filtrol tank that uses an o-ring for the seal. The tank "should" just spin off by just gripping it. The pressure is off the system when you are trying this . Right?
A trick I have learned over the years is to try tightening it up first. If it does move, it will break any corrosion, and then will unscrew. I don't know why you can tighten something up when it won't loosen, but it usually does. Weird.
Rick

rlaggren

Got it off w/a serpentine belt and two vise grips. Works like magic.

However. Yes, it's a filtrol tank and it does not have a NPT thread - something between 3/8 and 1/2. So I can't plug the connection (easily). I put the tank back on to make a "closed" system and started the descaler run. Hope it doesn't harm the tank because it seemed like it might still be good. But it's old and I need to move along.

The descaler seems to go through the boiler fast and easy. No sprinklers yet. (cross fingers) If things still look good after, I plan to put 30# of air in and see if it'll maintain, and if not, why/where. Then decision time.

Rufus