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ignition module not working?
NoreenClaire
Member Posts: 19
We have a Burnham gas-fired steam boiler with a Honeywell 2010 s8600 ignition module (so says the paperwork I found). The thermostat called for heat this morning and the system made the 'click' noise that it always does before it turns on but the boiler never actually functioned. (It *was* functioning a few weeks ago when one of my kids turned the thermostat all the way up and it was suddenly sweltering in my house...)
We took the side panel off to check the code on the ignition STATUS LED switch and it doesn't seem to be working at all. We checked at the fuse box, and none of the fuses were tripped, so we know it has power from the box. I have an email in to Charlie Garrity but, in the meantime, is there anything else that I can do/check to fix this?
Thanks,
Noreen
We took the side panel off to check the code on the ignition STATUS LED switch and it doesn't seem to be working at all. We checked at the fuse box, and none of the fuses were tripped, so we know it has power from the box. I have an email in to Charlie Garrity but, in the meantime, is there anything else that I can do/check to fix this?
Thanks,
Noreen
0
Comments
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It sounds like a safety has tripped. Check for loose wires but make sure you turn the power off first. Also if it has a power vent damper the switches on those sometimes get a little iffy.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
There may be manual reset buttons that tripped when the steamer was heating in hot weather. One could be just above the burners to protect against flame roll out. Another at the flue exhaust to guard against plugged chimney.
They are maybe the size of a dime and have two wires attached.
The manual reset ones have a small red button in the center.
With the power off try to reset them.....listen for a very slight click. Also some will visibly pop up.
If you reset them then try the power on. The power vent damper has to open first before anything happens.
You needed heat this morning? What part of the country are you in?0 -
We're north of Boston - it dropped to about 55F last night. As we had all the windows open and the thermostat has been set at 60F all summer, I didn't *need* heat (just to shut the windows), but I'm glad that I noticed that it didn't work so we can fix it before it gets too cold!
Thanks for the responses - I will reread them another dozen times or so and then head back downstairs. This is all WAY above my pay grade.0 -
Looking through the manual, the directions for the lighting/operating instructions for the VR8204 system, it doesn't mention a vent damper (it does mention it for other versions). Will have my husband shut off the power and check for loose wires. Thanks.BobC said:It sounds like a safety has tripped. Check for loose wires but make sure you turn the power off first. Also if it has a power vent damper the switches on those sometimes get a little iffy.
Bo0 -
Do you mean that white plastic thing with the two wires coming out of it, just above and slightly to the right of the burners? It looks like it might have a white button in the middle, between the wires.JUGHNE said:There may be manual reset buttons that tripped when the steamer was heating in hot weather. One could be just above the burners to protect against flame roll out. Another at the flue exhaust to guard against plugged chimney.
They are maybe the size of a dime and have two wires attached.
The manual reset ones have a small red button in the center.
With the power off try to reset them.....listen for a very slight click. Also some will visibly pop up.
If you reset them then try the power on. The power vent damper has to open first before anything happens.
One of the black wires reaches around the boiler until it goes between what I *think* is the flue exhaust and the boiler proper, where there is another small white plastic thing with two black wires. I don't think that I could fit my finger in there, though. (Sorry for the crappy picture.)
Thanks,
N
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Looking at the manual wiring schematic, the flame-roll out switch is a single-use device and not re-settable. The blocked vent switch *is* re-settable, if I knew how to "correct the source of the blockage".
At this point, we may just have to bite the bullet and get a pro in here. The simple act of taking the front panel off makes me nervous. The heating and plumbing systems in this house are killing me!0 -
In the first picture at the front of the boiler that is a high limit for flame roll out. That device has a one time fuse link in it and the little gizmo must be replaced if the link opened......if so then you need a pro or at least an ohmmeter.
The one on the back may have the reset button between the wires.
There could be more than these two, if so they are all strung together like Christmas lights, you could follow the wires......with the power off of course.
From looking at your previous pictures, your motorized vent damper is on the back of the boiler, the first piece in the 6" round pipe going to your chimney. If must tell the boiler it is open before you get fire.0 -
You may not have a blocked vent that opened that limit. Perhaps just overheating on a hot day the heat build up may have falsely have tripped it. You could reset it, with basement windows open in case there actually is an obstruction. If it trips again then you need a pro for sure.0
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Well, I have absolutely no idea what the problem was but it is fixed now. My uncle, who works for the gas company the next state over, happened to be in the neighborhood. He poked, he prodded, he flipped some switches, and then it came back to life.
Hopefully it lasts... *crosses fingers*
Thanks again for your help! I learned a lot.0
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