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Beckett r7184b

jon1021
jon1021 Member Posts: 8
I have an oil burner that heats 3 zones, one being for hot water. The controller r7184b is showing no lights or anything. We had no hot water yesterday and after holding reset it came on, but seemed to have went out again. Now holding for 45-60 seconds does nothing and not getting any lights at all not even a flash to show its locked out. I changed out circulator pump cause we had an issue like this before on other zone, but all I feel is water flowing and circulator getting hot but nothing else. Could this be another bad circulator or could controller be shot? Everything worked fine 2 days ago now nothing.

Comments

  • aircooled81
    aircooled81 Member Posts: 197
    Can you verify you have power to the controller?
    3 consecutive lock-outs create a restricted lock-out. This is becuase some folks have a tendancy to push the reset button repeadidly without actually correcting the problem.

    Verify the controller has power. If so and no lights, the controller may be done. If no power, start there first.

    This device is trying to tell you something is wrong. Can you use a voltage meter? Are you confident you can inspect the burner section and fuel? If so please advise and provide the model of equipment this unit is firing. If not, please contact a repair contractor.
    Not to be insulting at all, please don't take it that way. Just need to know what your capabilities are, then we can determine what trouble shooting advice to provide.
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    When I reset it like I said it ran for a bit and then I walked away and when I tried it again their was no light on at all and that's when I tried resetting again so other than when it fired yesterday and trying to reset it today I don't believe it was pushed 3 times to lock it out unless it tried firing again after and couldn't.

    I have used a voltage meter a couple times in the past so I have a general idea just would need to know what to test to make sure their is power to controller.

    Model for burner seems to be a peerless, and I could get specific boiler number listed on side of it if needed.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    Yeah stop pushing the button and call for service. All this button pushing might be loading your chamber with oil, which doesn't dry. Then you'll wish the burner doesn't light.
    Could be anything causing lockout:
    -plugged, partially plugged nozzle
    -air in oil line
    -blockage in oil line
    -bad/weak/dying ignitor
    -sticking/bad oil valve
    -cracked/dirty/worn electrodes
    -bad/loose electrical connection
    -improper grounding
    -improper incoming voltage
    -bad aquastat
    -bad primary control
    -problem with the motor
    -improper burner adjustment/air handling parts dirty
    -improper draft
    -etc, etc.
    None of the above problems have EVER been fixed by 'pushing the reset'
    steve
    aircooled81SWEI
  • aircooled81
    aircooled81 Member Posts: 197
    Steveusapa is so completely right.
    You have to be very careful with oil burners, and the safety device is what keeps your eyebrows, and even your life in tact.
    The problem must be identified and corrected before you attempt to reset this again.
    Do you feel confident you can trouble shoot and check the entire list he provided? If not, sorry but you are going to need to call out for service.
    Don't take your life in your hands, I know it's frustrating, but be safe.
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    I'm sure I could do most of the checking or replacing of parts, but yeah it's just since it's a weekend and we have no hot water either not exactly fun being without a shower essentially. I did talk to one guy a friend recommended and he kept saying it was the electrodes, but wouldnt be able to get parts till Monday and that's after the $150 just to have him look at it. So much for friends referrals... :neutral:
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,362
    I have had maybe three electrode problems that caused what you are having. If the fire does light and stays on for a while, it is more likely a bad cad cell. Could be bad fire or even bad control, but I have had more issues with a cad cell. And since you stated you only got it to run once after pushing the reset, I don't think you will have an issue filling up the firebox.
    The fact you have no lights on the control says it is an electrical issue on that end though. Possibly two problems here. One being a fire issue, the other being not getting power to the control.
    Make sure you have power to the control first. If not, backtrack to find out where it stops. Possible the aquastat is not sending it through.
    Rick
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    jon1021 said:

    I did talk to one guy a friend recommended and he kept saying it was the electrodes, but wouldnt be able to get parts till Monday and that's after the $150 just to have him look at it. So much for friends referrals... :neutral:

    Find someone else. If he's diagnosing it before he goes, he probably won't take the time to really look it over.
    He's blowing you off. Every oil burner mechanic has electrodes on the truck, unless it's something out of the ordinary.

    And where can I go where I get to charge $150 just for walking in the door...

    steve
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    I have a voltage tester just need to know what I need to check for the control to see if their is power. Currently I have it switched all off cause when it's on the 3 zones relay has a green light for power and then red for that zone that keeps calling, but the circulator pump gets really hot to touch so not sure if its supposed to be like that or its burning itself out with the burner not turning on.
  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    edited June 2016
    @STEVE

    Edit: removed comment about pricing.

    OP, usually if there is no light on the primary there is a lack of 120v input or no t-stat call. Obviously the are other possible culprits. Thats why youre better off with a profesional. Changing circulators will not correct an issue with the burner.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 15,331
    We do NOT discuss pricing on this forum.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    I changed a circulator cause last year when it was freezing out and we had a newborn we lost heat and it was calling for heat for that zone but burner wouldn't go on, changing circulator fixed it or that's what the guy that came said and it worked after that so took a long shot that we maybe had a bad pump again.

    Everything worked as it should till about a day and a half ago and no wires were loose, didn't run out of oil, and it turned on when i reset first day why the intermediate turning on just to heat the indirect water heater baffles me of what could have gone wrong.
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    I am aware of the ability to go bad, just shows that nothing is made like it used to be and even the parts that should last a lifetime last 2-3 years or less just so you have to keep replacing them and spend more money...
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,362
    Hatterasguy:
    I have to strongly disagree on that one. I can't tell you how many of those controls I have had that had solder joints break on the circuit board where the relay connects. At least 50 anyway. It started about a year after they started having them made in Mexico, and just shortly after warranty was up. There is just not enough solder on them to do the job, and after a period of time of the relay snapping open and close, the solder joint cracks and the heat goes down.
    Not that I would ever repair one mind you, cause of liability and such, but it only takes a little solder to get them working again.
    Other than the bad solder job, they are pretty good.
    Rick
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone use any of the newer controllers that have a screen that supposedly can self diagnose what could be wrong and you can also set the burner to run a certain way?
  • aircooled81
    aircooled81 Member Posts: 197
    Line 1 and line 2, do you have power to the controller? This will enter from the aquastat controller.
    Voltage meter, Line 1 and line 2, what power due you have there?
    I was going to post the pdf for instal and trouble shoot of this controller, but I fear this is not the safeset approach for you.

  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,362
    Not sure of time period date, but about a year after Nafta started. 10 to 15 years ago I think. Older ones were made here. Rick
  • jon1021
    jon1021 Member Posts: 8
    I had a guy that used to work on furnaces and he seems to think that it is the aquastat as when he pressed a metal springed piece inside it the controller light would flash real quick and then go off. Can an aquastat keep it from firing at all or is it more of a temperature gauge for the heater to shut off when it gets to a certain temp?
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    jon1021 said:

    I had a guy that used to work on furnaces and he seems to think ...?

    We're on Day 5 for a 1 hour job. All the things I mentioned in my first post can be checked pretty quickly and eliminated to get to the root of your problem.
    Don't you know a competent professional-maybe someone from the oil company you buy your oil?

    steve