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Combustion Chamber Replacement

ppllgg
ppllgg Member Posts: 69
edited March 2016 in Oil Heating
HEY GUYS, Can I get some HELP here in identifying my boiler ?... I found this Info. behind that inspect panel loc. at the Front/Top of of boiler. (Burnham Boiler- Mod. # WV 18 - 9A S/N 8899035 ), My problem is I order a Comb. Chamber kit for a Burham V-18 series boiler, & it doesn't seem to match up w/what I got here ! (Lynn - Comb. Chamb. kit # 1064 say's it's for a Burnham V - 18 series boiler. My Combustion Chamber is a perfect Cube. (18"X18"X18") Can I just line the (5) surfaces with Kaowool Board ??.. & If so, What thickness would you recommend? ...1/2", 3/4",1", 11/2"or the 2" K- Board ?? I'm Hoping to Get this together Sooon & Running !! ANY & ALL TIPS & HELP w/this would be GREATLY APPRECIATED !!
FRANK






Comments

  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Pic.'s of the unit.
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
    Lynn part number for that is : 6186041
    ppllgg
  • Jason_13
    Jason_13 Member Posts: 305
    This is not a V-18 boiler. The V1 series which includes a V-18 is a cast iron line. this is a steel boiler so the chamber is incorrect. Did you call Burnham for a replacement?
    Bob Bona_4
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    Ah yes, thee deare olde Burnham RS series...................
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Bob Bona_4
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    THANKS MARZ !!! (WOW - Lynn # 1107) There NOT cheap , But iT really looks like a NICE kit, ( Avalable from Patriot Supply), I think this would have better flame flow characteristics than if I just used the board. (it seems to be all molded nice !!https://www.patriot-supply.com//images/medium_LYNN1107Webshot.jpg
  • Jason_13
    Jason_13 Member Posts: 305
    There are 3 different sizes according to the shell size. You should have an accurate model number. The one you posted is not accurate.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    I priced it out for a complete 1" K -Board lining ( 5 sides) & It's the about same $ as the complete ( molded kit ) Which includes " EVERYTHING NEEDED !!)
    I'm def. going with the KIT !
    THANKS GREATLY GENTLEMEN :)
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Jason Not knowing, I incorrectly assumed the Mod. # WV 18 - 9a , had something to do with the "series #" I DON"T SEE ANY ~ R.S ~ Markings on it , Or let alone a RS series " # " ! .... Thou that I know IT'S a RS NOW.... Thanks for giving me it's correct Info. about the ( BIG ) diff. between the (SERIES vs. Mod.# ) , Just can't find the " RS series " # " To look up the proper Kit. RS series #'s (109 thu 114) Is Lynn Kit # 1170
    FRANK
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Jason, my C. Chamber is a 18"X18"X18" Cube .
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    chrome-extension://oemmndcbldboiebfnladdacbdfmadadm/http://www.lynnmfg.com/wp-content/themes/absolum/images/misc/Lynn-Ready-Reference.pdf
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    The Pryor chart shows that the Lynn # 1107 is for all RS series listed, There's quite a few, ( RS 109 thru 114) I haven't found any series #'s on mine yet thuo...
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Delete
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Where is the " RS Series " I.D. "#" Located ???
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    I was told I need this first Kit. (#6186041), But from what I see & looked up, not knowing my RS series # ( can't find it) Just going by it being a " RS Series) I think I should be getting the #1107 Kit, the other one looks like it includes & lists alot more parts than I need.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    https://www.patriot-supply.com/search_new.cfm?old_search=1107&q=6186041&button=
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    I'm trying to determine what RS series # Mine is . Because RS series #'s 109 thru 114 will use the (Lynn Combustion Chamber Replacement Kit # 1170 ) I just can't seem to find this RS series # on mine :( Going by the Picture of the kit it looks perfect.)
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
    How big is the house? Chances are that boiler is not larger than the RS-114
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
    If you take the top cover off of the boiler there should be a tag that gives you the info that you want. Remove flue pipe, remove cover.
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
    I'm almost positive the tag is either next to the tankless or next to the flue collector.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Having sent the pic.'s of this boiler with the #'s that I found on it along with it's Comb. Chamber dimensions (18"X18"X18") to Lynn Mfg. They believe their # 1107 kit fits what I got. So I'm ordering it.
  • Marz
    Marz Member Posts: 90
    Beautiful! Let us know how it goes, or if you need any advice
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Marz, I got the flu & that cover off. I'm still no find'n a tag ( prob. was Removed !!) Here's Some more Pic.'s. & LOOK at the Damage that was found just at the point that the flu pipe entered the chimney. ( that was buttered up & paper thin !! My GOD !! I'm Glad I'm still ALIVE, YES..
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    PIC.'s of flu pipe & Top w/cover removed.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Marz, My house is 1200 sq. ft.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    I scraped & wire brushed the top surface, down the tubes & the baffles. ( can this tag still be beneath the crap that didn't all come off ? ) I'm baffled...I'm Pretty sure I'm getting the right kit tho, Based on it's physical dim,'s. of the combustion Chamber.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    I took out a few more screws on the front jacket sheet metal & was able to get a better look at those I.D. #'s stamped on the tag attached to the boiler (just behind sm.plate that was covering them) Shown in early pic. (located at the top, front of this unit.)
    IT definitely has " MOD. W V 18 - 9 A " Stamped on the lower right bottom of this attached tag. Humm...Can it be that they changed their way they used MOD. #'s ...in other words can this be an older MOD. # , for the same boiler ???
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    The Tankless has a sticker on it that say's " Model RSM - 5 "
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Burnham is closed till next Tues. for the Holiday . So Tues. I'm going to show them what I have for #'s , Pic.'s & measurements.They should know what this %$*&@ thing is. lol :) (I hope)
  • burnerman_2
    burnerman_2 Member Posts: 297
    Says Therma Flo... Watertown ,ma.... Did Burnham buy this company ? and did this model come before the R S models? along the same line of thought I worked on an American Standard That looked like a V 13 my guess this is what Burnham Bought for the V1 Series
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    This unit also had this sticker on it - " National Standard Boiler Co." - & I hear that Burnham bought that Co. in the 80's...I think this has something to do with the I.D. #'s problem I'm dealing w/ NOW.
  • DickC
    DickC Member Posts: 15
    Burnham sold RS and RSM steel boilers, both looked alike however the RSM I believe was more efficient. Get the one piece replacement chamber that slides into the base and do it right. These boilers would often rot away at tankless, original model jacket covered tankless and no one could see leaking gasket. Funny thing, one boiler was 85% and the other 82% and I think the difference in price was like $20.00, go figure.
    ppllgg
  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
    If I remember, the RS had big baffles with shelves. The RSM had smaller spiral ones and the tankless was exposed.
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Excellent Info. DickC & Bob Bona !! & I can't forget the many others, Bob , I got the baffles w/ shelves. BUT my Tankless is Exposed Thou? Humm ...Yep everyone's think'n (RS), & YES **** C, I'm Definitely getting that one piece molded Comb. kit. (Lynn # 1107) Not to change the sub., But can you get me in the right direction on my Flu Pipe FIX...It's 7 " dia. & " BAD " (take a look at the 22" piece that was just inside the chimney !!... I can't afford a major Up Grade, BUT I GOT TOO MAKE THIS SAFE AGAIN !!! I think I need it to be 24 ga. ?? (I' m sorry , But I don't know about the terminology & "what" I need to order for Here. ANY & ALL HELP/ ADVISE & TIPS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED !!! YOU GUYS HAVE HELPED ME SOOO MUCH ALREADY & I'm " VERY , VERY" THANKFUL for THAT !!! (Y) :) There's (3) other pieces altogether, a straight pc. w/ damper & a 90 deg. elbow,( total length is about 5'. That look usable too me, I'll post a pic.of them soon.)
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    & ~ WISHING A HAPPY EASTER TOO EVERYONE !!! :):)
    ~ MAY GOD BLESS YOU ~ :):)
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Hey Guys,
    No, I'm NOT working on EASTER, I Just took a few pictures to share of the next fix I need to make here.(Replacing a section of my flue pipe), All is 7" dia. The 22" piece that went into the chimney is junk, But I'm thinking I can use the rest until the next cleaning ? The Cover (not pictured) look Very good, It looks like its made out of S/Steel. I'd like too know how much I should rebuild that hole in the chimney where the pipe goes back in. Should I rebuild that total 10 " thick chimney wall thickness & reduce it too a nice formed hole, (circle) say 71/4" dia. Then seal that 1/8" gap on the new 7" pipe w/ furnace refactory ? OR is there some kind of " Sleeve Insert " That will reduce this existing 8"X 9" X 10" thick wall rectangular hole I got in my chimney to my 7 " Flue Pipe & then that gets sealed up ??? .To me it presently doesn't look like I had a very good or safe connection here. (It " Was " just flashed over patch of about 3/8 " furnace cement.) I'm looking for a good repair here, I think it's critical. I'm just unfamiliar with what methods you guys would use ....Oh & would that new pipe i'm going to put in extend past the inside wall a little or flush with the inside wall of the chimney ??? It looked like it was half way into the chimney wall when It was removed.....(that didn't seem right to me) I'd like to know it's proper location so it's correct when I put that new one in.
    ANY & All Help, Advise or Tips would be Greatly Appreciated !!
    for Sharing Your Knowledge.
    & I'm Hoping Your All Enjoying Your EASTER HOLIDAY , YES :)
    & hope to hear from you soon too. :)
    FRANK
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Here's a better orientation on that hole in the chimney.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Here, That's better.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    I JUST got the Identifying info. on my unit from U.S. BOILER... IT"S a ~ RS -111 - T -TB that was shipped on 03/04/1988
    YEEP ~ PEEE !! ( I order the right Comb. Chamb.)
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    LYNN #1170

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