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?? Auto- Air Venting,( Boiler circulatory sys.) Is this what this is & does ? ?

ppllgg
ppllgg Member Posts: 69
Because it just started leaking, " Again", Just after I repaired the leaking circulator pump flange O- rings & purged the air out of the boiler'& Lines. It has the # 1706 on it. Is it a BIG job to replace one of those?? Do I need a certain rated one? Because I have a New one, a (Taco-150 psi - Italy -240F ) It's not made out of thin wall copper( like this one), It's a hefty bronze (2pc. casting) . I'm sorry, But I don't KNOW a lot about these. I'm really worried about it snapping OFF during removal ! It's not very accessible being located up on top, near the ceiling. ANY HELP & Your Shared Knowledge Would be Greatly Appropriated !!
Regards,
FRANK

Comments

  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Almost any air vent should work there. Be sure to test & repressurize the tank while you have things apart.
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Hello Swei, Thank You for your prompt response !! (as you prob. can tell this isn't my trade, But I not afraid of trying to fix things that break here around my house... Can you explain to me a little about the (re pressurizing & testing of the tank) And I'm worried about the vent snapping OFF in removal....Is that common !! Also is it absolutely necessary (tank pressurizing & test) it hasn't been serviced in 10yr.'s And I'm worried about MORE leaks deveolping w/that old Tank , the shrader valve on the bott. does look in V good cond. Do these tanks require reg. maintenance (re pressurizing ??) I'm Unfortunately on shoe~ string BUDGET...& I'm waiting on my Lynn # 1064 combustion chamber kit to arrive. It's all cleaned out & ready to be put in...I haven't had heat/h.water for 5 days now & I can't afford to break or repair everything at this present time. (I really Wish I could) I'm just hop'n for the heat & h.water again Soon !! I almost think I my develop a bigger prob. if I dive into this (very minor leak, which has presently stopped).I'd Like to hear what Your opinion is. & Much THANKS for Your Advise In Advance, Swei !!
    Frank
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 16,289
    It looks like a check, service valve under the vent.

    If so use a couple open end wrenches, probably metric, and remove the vent from the service valve and replace it without draining or depressurizing the system. Here is more info on how it works. Brass threads usually come apart easily.

    http://www.caleffi.com/sites/default/files/file/01090.pdf
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Hello Hot rod,
    Thanks for that Great Info., & It does look like my vent is on-top of a (check valve) Thou mines a bit taller than the one in the pic.'s .
    So your saying & it states that I should be able to just unscrew it & replace it with the new one that I have. :smile: With my luck the check valve won't be working properly. Have you ever run into something like that/then what...start shut'n Water in take valve off or just screw the Vent back together QUICK ?
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    ppllgg said:

    Can you explain to me a little about the (re pressurizing & testing of the tank) And I'm worried about the vent snapping OFF in removal....Is that common !! Also is it absolutely necessary (tank pressurizing & test) it hasn't been serviced in 10yr.'s And I'm worried about MORE leaks deveolping w/that old Tank , the shrader valve on the bott. does look in V good cond. Do these tanks require reg. maintenance (re pressurizing ??)

    The tank should be inspected every year. Tap on the air side (the end with the Schrader valve) using a screwdriver handle and listen for a hollow sound -- compare with the sound from the other end where it attaches to the air scoop. Press on the Schrader valve stem briefly to verify that air comes out. If water comes out, or the whole tank is full of water, it's shot.

    About every two years, test the tank. Drain the system (enough that the water level falls below the tank) and unscrew the tank from the air scoop. Put a low pressure tire gauge on the Schrader valve and see what's in there. You want the same air pressure in the tank as you run the system at -- typically 12-15 PSI for residential systems (the actual amount depends on the system height.) Once the tank is repressurized, clean the threads on the water side, put some Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads and screw the tank back into the air scoop.
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    SWEI, THANK S FOR YOUR COMPLETE FOLLOW ~ UP about my tank , AWESOMELY HELPFUL of YOU !! & I'll Definitely do that. :smile::smiley:
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Happy to help.

    Install one of these while you have the tank off and you will make the next round a lot easier.
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    edited March 2016
    Hay Gentlemen,GREAT NEWS, I got the old vent off, But check valve didn't hold back the w/psi, So I was able to put a threaded plug in. & While I had that extra room I got to wire brush around all the rust/corroded spots mostly at the joints w/(air tool) After I wiped it down w/ break clean & put (2) coats of Chevy blue on them. The Vent is NOT LEAK'N NOW ! & I Killed a lot rust at the same time !! I Really Appreciate ALL of the forth coming HELP YOU GUYS Gave ME,
    Can't Thank ~ You ~ Enough !! SUPER, S0 far So good ..Leading up to the main job of put'n in that C-Chamber. Next. :smile:
    rick in Alaska
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Sounds like the tank tested OK?

    Remember that you can not set the air pressure while the tank has water in it. The service valve I linked to above makes this trivial, and we test them every year.
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    Hello SWEI,
    Good News, The tank has a "Good" sound tone (hollow on bott. compared to the sound at the top) & is holding 20 psi. of air. Presently. When I initially opened the shad./ valve a very sm. amount of h2o sprayed out( maybe a tea.spoon (condensation?) For a second then just dry air ( that smelt of 300 yr.old fish. :( Both my PSI's are matching Presently....IS that a GOOD sign !! Should I still have to drain the boiler down to check it further ? If so I'm going to hold off on that until I can ENJOY some Heat & HOT water First.Would that be O.K. w/everything for now. Wed. that C. Chamber kit should get here to install.
    Regards,
    Frank
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    You should be fine for a bit, but please do pressurize the air side of tank to match the system pressure when you can get the tank off.
    ppllgg
  • ppllgg
    ppllgg Member Posts: 69
    O.K ~ SWEI, I'll also install that part you recommend to make it easy for the future annual Inspects , (At the same time) YES, Thanks Again for your Time & Great Advice. (Y) :smile:
    Frank