Taco iseries

Harvey Ramer

nate379 said:

With the bypass closed it returns to the i series valve. Yup the drawing is correct.

I can only guess that the big Honeywall valve worked differently. It had hot, cold and mix. hot from the boiler, cold was the return and mix the supply to the floor.

Nate,
Ask yourself this, If hot water from the boiler enters the radiant loops through the mixing valve, then cold water must return to the boiler through the return line. It's a sealed system with onle a certain amount of water in it. If you take water from one place in the system, it has to be replaced with water from another place in the system. No 2 ways about it.

If you are certain that the floor was heating with the return to the boiler closed, than you have a leak in the system.

nate379

The valve allowed hot water to mix in I can only guess, I'm not sure. I just know it worked before, now it doesn't and the only thing ed changed is the mixing valve.

I got the pipe today, $4 a foot for a couple ft piece at the plumbing store. Lowe's wanted $60 for an 8ft stick. Didn't get a chance to get it all setup, fell asleep while eating supper and just woke up a few mins ago (almost 2am here)

Paul48

http://media.wattswater.com/1915905.pdf

It may be a little easier to visualize what's happening by looking at figure #2. Once the secondary loop reaches the preset temperature, It just circulates. There is no "cold" to prevent it from overheating. So, it circulates until the loop temperature cools.Then the spool shifts and allows more "hot" from the boiler in. That action also closes the secondary loop and forces the return water back to the boiler. In your case the iSeries is adjusting the temperature, the principal is the same.

nate379

Got the pipes moved, I think k it will work. Not sure because the darn air seperator is leaking. It wouldn't vent so I cracked loose the vent cap (small fitting pointing to the left), that worked but now its leaking water. I pulled it apart and wiped it clean, no luck. I stuck a hose on it and let the boiler run maybe 20 mins to get the domestic hot water warmed back up and it drained out almost 5 gals.

Any idea if I can pull the whole top apart? Ignore the mess, I tore the pipe insulation off to see if I could find a brand (nope).

I did buy a Watts seperator and floating vent (all Lowe's had) but I'd rather not gave to do more plumbing if possible.

I did put a qt of boiler cleaner, the pipes I cut open had a pretty think rust film. The black pump was abut 50% clogged up from rust. It's orginal to the heating system (2008). Normal? I'm wondering if the vent had been jammed up for quit a while and never let air purge... air would cause rust right?

Tim Potter

would this be your model?

http://s3.supplyhouse.com/product_files/PV100S-Install.pdf

nate379

I think so. Looks like I can clean it. Thanks.