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DIY help request -- Burnham P204A-WNI -- electronic ignition
davidjfoose
Member Posts: 7
Hi -- I hope this is posted in the right place and somebody can help. If not, please let me know where to correctly post it.
I have a boiler on which I have replaced the igniter and pilot assembly. Since I turned everything back on I hear the click of the igniter, and see the blue pilot flame for half a second or so but the main burners never come on.
What else should I be checking? Gas is on, breaker is on, maintenance switch is on, and there are no leaks detected by soapy water. What is my next step?
I have a boiler on which I have replaced the igniter and pilot assembly. Since I turned everything back on I hear the click of the igniter, and see the blue pilot flame for half a second or so but the main burners never come on.
What else should I be checking? Gas is on, breaker is on, maintenance switch is on, and there are no leaks detected by soapy water. What is my next step?
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Comments
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Did the pilot assembly come with a new orifice or do you reuse the old one? The orifice is only 1 or 2 pinholes, plugs easy, gets lost easy also.You could take the pilot tubing off and blow thru it to be sure it is open. Then connect the pilot assembly to the tube and blow thru it, should just barely hear the air as you turn red in the face.
Is the main gas pressure good for the other appliances in the house?1 -
Well, that's a great question. I assumed that the orifice was included (says it is in their manual, image attached) but I didn't check. Shall I pull it out in the morning and check? The pilot tubing (aluminum) was open when I checked that.
The gas pressure for the dryer and range are both very good and water heater seems to work well, too.
Thanks for getting back to me.0 -
If the orifice was missing you would have a very tall pilot flame.
Usually one should assure that the tubing is clear by blowing thru both ends when it is off.
The ground wire is critical to proper operation. Check both ends for good connection. I usually pull off and reset push on 1/4" female connectors. This gives them a new cut on the male spade surface. This may not be the problem, but however you have eliminated the cheap and easy issues if any.
Your spark should be visible and usually audible and be present until the pilot flame is well established.
There may be a troubleshoot guide with the boiler or ignition module.0 -
Here is a short video of the ignition and what looks like, to me, a pretty good pilot flame that branches over two main burners. This is all that happens, though. Might the gas valve be the issue?0
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I can't see that the video uploaded, so apologies for multiple copies if they are present.0
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Still can't see the video. Can you see it on your end?0
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No, but if you have a good double branch flame staying on over pilot into spark, which is now a flame sensor, then should be 24 volts to main gas valve.0
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Thanks. I'll try to check that. Regular volt-meter, right?0
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I got 24 volts (immediately) and misdiagnosed the real issue. Finally gave in and got a pro who pretty quickly diagnosed a bad coil in the circuit board. Replaced the board and everything works. I didn't know to cross wires and wait for voltage to change.
Thanks for your advice. I really appreciate it.0 -
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