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Firomatic valve

riely23
riely23 Member Posts: 1
in Oil Heating
I am trying to replace my oil filter & I have two oil tanks in my basement. One is old and has a standard shutoff valve, no issue with that. The other tank has a Fireomatic valve and that valve just spins, like it is stripped. I have tried tapping the screw, but it just keeps spinning freely in both directions. The question is, how screwed am I?

Comments

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,328
    Instead of wooden dowels, wouldn't a balloon or condom perhaps stretch over the outside of the pipes and create a good enough seal? Seems easier than making wooden dowels.

    Or even Saran Wrap held tight with some rubber bands?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
    edited January 2016
    It happens. I've got them re-engaged with the threads by pulling up on the handle and twisting clockwise so the lead threads bite again. Then replace the handle once it comes off. Needlenose pliers carefully grasp the stem at first to keep it from spinning. Spray some WD40 on the stem threads.
    billtwocase
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Case and point for putting a positive shut off, gate or ball valve, first in line. Try pulling up as you turn the wheel. Just seen that Bob also suggested. Works for me. I wouldn't recommend you try to remove or replace this valve yourself. Have a pro use a vacuum, and install a ball valve first, thermal valve second
    WhirlingD
  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    I see a few of you recommend a ball valve first. Is it fair to assume these are less prone to leaking? Do you connect with 1/2 inch nipples and an elbow? Seems like it would increase the chance of a leak with more fittings.

    Most installations in my area are firomatic only.

    I think I've seen a ball valve "tank valve". Not a bad option probably.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    They are prone to stopping the flow of oil from the tank when needed. Most of the time, fusible handled valves need help closing. Hardly serve their purpose from a fire prevention standpoint. I use a 1/2" street 90 in the bottom tank outlet, bush it down to 3/8 out to a ball valve, next is an inline fusible valve, filter, flare fitting
  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    I like the look of something like this, to firomatic, to filter.

    Although I guess it real only eliminates 1 or 2 joints.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    You couldn't give me one of those one piece valves. They make them with a built in thermal valve also. I am old school when it comes to valves and piping. Very little time is spent building it out with iron and valves, lots of time trying to extract something like this when there is a problem
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,328
    I would rather try to remove a brass fitting from a tank than a steel one anyday.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • Bob Harper
    Bob Harper Member Posts: 1,092
    A Firomatic is a safety device. If it fails in any way, it should be replaced-period. Do what you need to do to the fill & vent so you can replace the valve and install a ball valve upstream. There is a technique using a vacuum but it is very risky as you can collapse the tank or cause an oil spill if not careful.

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