Leaky Radiator

jtonzola

One of my radiators is leaking from where the nipple of the valve enters the bushing that screws into the radiator itself. I tried tightening and loosening the nipple from the bushing with a spud wrench however the notches inside the nipple stripped. I guess now I will have to try to loosen it with a pipe wrench on outside of pipe? Should I replace the whole valve, because I think that is how this is sold? And should I continue to try to take the nipple out of the bushing or just take the bushing out of the radiator? They are pretty jammed so i am going to have some difficulty and will try to loosen things up a with a blow torch. Any suggestions on the best way to go about this?
See pic below. Leak is where nipple enters bushing(i think this is the correct term). Thanks!

jtonzola

Oh and is it best to use pipe puddy or tephlon tape when joining all of these?

JUGHNE

IF you're sure that the nipple {spud} is leaking on the radiator, then you must change the valve and the spud that screws inside the iron bushing. Valve comes with a new matching spud.

IMO I would not try to remove the iron bushing in the radiator. I would remove the spud only as it is brass and easier to cut out of the iron bushing.

Sometimes a good grade easy-out tool for that pipe size will work. But spuds may have a smaller inside diameter than standard pipe sizes. If you saw the nut off to get it out of the way and then insert a snug fitting smaller pipe or bolt inside the spud, this keeps it from collapsing to an egg shape which may make removal tougher. A good pipe wrench may possibly then unscrew the spud.

If that fails then it is hacksaw blade time. Shorten the spud so only 3/8" is sticking out. Saw sections out of the inside of the brass spud....like a 1/4" strip.....maybe twice opposite each other.
Don't cut into the steel/iron bushing threads. With a small chisel you then remove the strips. Then the spud may unscrew by tapping the edges with your chisel. I clean the threads and sometimes run a pipe nipple in and out just to clear up the threads before putting the new spud in. Don't forget to first put the new union nut on....... in the right direction...(I'm sure no one has ever done that ).
I use 3 wraps of Teflon tape and also pipe dope on the male pipe threads. Nothing on the union nut/threads. Line things up and wiggle/shake the radiator as you tighten the nut.
Some new valves may be shorter than your old. You may have to be able to pull the floor riser pipe up to get things lined up.

Be sure to buy a steam valve, hot water valves might look the same but not have the internal area for condensate to return back down the pipe as the steam comes up.

There are Utube videos for spud and valve removal.

jtonzola

Okay, Thanks Jughne. Super Helpful.

jtonzola

Jughne, I was able to cut the nut off of the spud and then after heating around the spud a pipe wrench and a hammer did the trick. I decided to not replace the actual valve because I did not want to be troubled with lifting the pipe by myself. (it was about a 1/2 inch difference.) I put some pipe dope on the male end of spud and for now no leaks. Thanks again Jughne for the detailed instruction. It helped me gain some confidence before diving into the project.

JUGHNE

Good to hear! So you have a new spud and an old valve that seem to match up without leaking.
That doesn't always happen.

jtonzola

Yes I was worried about that too. So far so good. I may add it to list of steam heater repairs I look forward to tackling in spring and summer. Thanks again.

jtonzola

Hello Jughne, I just posted a new discussion Water level continuing to increase. Can you check it out when you have a minute? Thanks