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Power vent to chimney

Geraldo
Geraldo Member Posts: 16
When switching from power vent to chimney, do they just have to remove parts for power venter or do they have to add more parts to connect to chimney? Also, do they have to set up furnace or boiler for chimney?

Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,695
    You're taking out the power venter?
    Yeah, remove the whole thing, disconnect wiring, plug hole.
    Run proper sized flue pipe to chimney. But make sure your chimney is first inspected by a professional chimney company (preferable with a camera), before using. Even if you're lining it. Lining the chimney will help your draft, but it wont keep a failing chimney from collapsing.
    What's the reason why the power venter was installed in the first place? Usually because the chimney was bad, failing, poor draft, etc.
    I don't know what you mean by 'set up' but a full combustion test, smoke test, draft test should be done.
    If you fill us in with the rest of the story, maybe we can provide more help.
    steve
    j a_2
  • Geraldo
    Geraldo Member Posts: 16
    The power vent was there when I bought the house. The house does not have a chimney. On a repair visit a few months ago or so, they told me the power vent needs to be replaced. I moved in 2001 and I don't recall any major work being done to it so it has lasted a long time. After asking on here I decided a stainless steel chimney would be the way to go. A chimney guy will install but I was under the impression I would need a tech there and I wanted to make sure I would need someone other than the chimney guy so that I could arrange for them to be there the same day. That is why I asked if there was a need to set up the boiler for the chimney.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,695
    Yeah I would have a tech come by and do a full combustion test. Too much draft is a bad thing too.
    Ask the chimney guy how long it's going to take, have a tech stop by on his way home/last call.
    Make sure the chimney guy puts in a barometric draft damper unless your boiler manufacturer says you can omit it, and even then, have him put one in anyways.
    steve
    Robert O'Brien
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    edited December 2015
    If it was wired right to begin with, the heating unit will need to be rewired as well. Not a big fan of power venters, they create negative pressure in a home real quick
  • Geraldo
    Geraldo Member Posts: 16
    Is a barometric draft damper something that will be a problem area over time?
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    No, but it should be checked every few years.
  • Geraldo
    Geraldo Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the heads up, they were not including a barometric draft damper as part of the install. I am also confused because when I told the chimney guy I would need the oil tech there he said that is fine, I could disconnect it but it would be quicker if he ( oil tech) did it. In another email he also mentioned do I know an electrician to have disconnect the motor wiring to the fan. The installer did not leave me much wiggle room when he mentioned an install date so I told him I want to be clear as to whether the electrician has to disconnect the wires before they start. I also asked him if they normally disconnect whatever he was saying he could do but the oil man would do faster. I just want to know what has to be done when and what I need to arrange so there are no problems. Should they be the ones making sure this is organized and everything will being done in the order it needs to be instead of me trying to figure it out? I am beginning to wonder if I should be concerned about how things are going or if this is normal.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    There is more than just unwiring the fan motor. If it was wired properly, either your primary, or aquastat sends power up to the powervent upon call of cycle, and after a fan prover makes contact from vacuum, it sends power back down to allow the burner to fire. The spillage switch, and post-purge control, depending on model, should also be removed. Wiring needs to be done, and definitely a draft control, which should have been there to begin with, and set for your over fire negative draft set for the unit specs
  • Geraldo
    Geraldo Member Posts: 16
    edited January 2016
    Thanks for your comments.