Bell & Gossett Circulator Pump Determined by Gas Utility to be Faulty by way of Over-lubrication

AlexPetron

Hey Guys,

This post pertains to the gas-fired radiant heating system at my mom's house.

For several years, my mom would get heat in the master bedroom and two bathrooms (closest to the boiler), but minimal to no heat in the living room and kitchen. Two years ago, the expansion tank failed and a plumber replaced it. This minimally improved the situation but not by much. Last year, a major leak in two of the heating pipes was discovered on the side of the house outside the kitchen. After that heating season ended, the leak was repaired.

Following that repair, the situation has been reversed. There is now heat in the living room and kitchen but none in the master bedroom or bathrooms. She contacted the local gas utility regarding this problem. A technician told her that the Bell & Gossett Circulator Pump was likely seized as a result of being flooded with motor oil. Several years earlier, another technician from that utility advised her to lubricate the circulator pump once every two weeks to keep it running smooth. Now there is the question of whether the existing circulator pump can be repaired by way of extracting the oil or if it necessitates replacement. The pump, along with the rest of the heating plant is about twenty years old.

So the questions she has at this point are:
1. Is there a way to extricate the excess motor oil out of the circulator pump?
2. What is the metal object found about two weeks ago in the drainpan?

Thank you for any guidance you can offer!

SWEI

Did they by any chance use detergent oil?

Paul48

Based on the amount of oil in the pan, and on the floor, would it matter?

Paul48

Isn't it a few drops a season?

JUGHNE

Over oiling saturates the rubber motor mounts on the ends of the motor. They cause the motor to sag, this puts more stress on the coupling, (part of which is the metal part in the pan).

It may not be beyond repair. If you disconnect the remaining coupler part, (allen screws) and unbolt the motor (the small 7/16 bolts that point towards the motor, not the larger ones that point towards the pump) you can see how well the pump turns.
With the coupling completely removed from the motor you can lay the motor on the floor and hold it in place with your foot and energize it to see if it starts, should run very quiet. There could be a fuse you should check for the motor.

Not a difficult repair if you are at all handy.
Oil in 3 places once a year. B&G had a handy tube of oil that would include instructions on how much to oil.

The both probably need new motor mounts & couplers.
They can last 30 years, easy.

JUGHNE

If you look for a service person for this you could ask if they know how to service a B&G 100 series 3 piece circulator/pump.
If you get the deer in the headlight response on the phone, then I would keep looking. If that person knows about this pump he certainly could replace it if needed. I repair them up to the point where they leak water. (BTY take the oil can away )

Gordy

3 drops of 20w non detergent oil in each of the three ports at the beginning of each season. There is a tube at the back of the motor, the front of the motor, and a flapper lid at the bearing housing by where the motor coupler is. That is a lot of oil on the floor. Usually it deteriates the mounts when over oiled which leads to coupler failure.

JUGHNE

Looked at an old bearing housing label that states: "7/8 to 1 oz in pump housing; 12 drops in each motor cup"

To me that seems more than enough for a year.

Gordy

Seems excessive for intermittent residential operation.

hot_rod

wouldn't a new wet rotor pump be less $$ than a repair? Are you in an area where there are rebates available for ECM pump replacements?

Abracadabra

pretty sure the pump housing needs more than 3 drops. 3 drops would hardly wet the wicking in there. I just get these B&G tubes from my supplier. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bell-Gossett-L23401-Oil-Tube-15-oz

unclejohn

I would S-can that pump and get a Grundfos 3- speed pump. Add a good air separator while your in there and all your troubles are over. The thing in the pan is part of the pump coupling.

AlexPetron

Wow, thanks! Much educational advice so far, thank you all!

unclejohn said:

I would S-can that pump and get a Grundfos 3- speed pump. Add a good air separator while your in there and all your troubles are over. The thing in the pan is part of the pump coupling.

Are there any differences, other than manufacturer, between the Bell & Gossett and the Grundfos? Are they essentially interchangeable? I think replacing both circulator pumps at this point is a practical approach. The Grundfos looks to be a more economical unit, and given the age of the heating plant that would be a distinct advantage.

Given that a portion of the pump coupling has dislodged, are there any drawbacks to temporary usage of the boiler?

Also, by "air separator" are you referring to one of the parts depicted in the image I uploaded? If it is the one I think you mean, that was replaced at the same time last year when the expansion tank was replaced.

SWEI

We use http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/60002052 for sleeve bearings, including those on 3-piece pumps. Non-detergent and has an EP additive package.

unclejohn

That arm of the coupling could be from when it was replaced before. As long as the pump is not clanging and real noisy you can run it. Here is a link to air separators. Any brand will do.
http://www.spirotherm.com/