New install

Henry

The Smith blew out the second section, near the top third on a Saturday night. It made a huge boom and a lot of smoke. They called the fire department. We took it and the Hot water boiler out on the Tuesday. By Friday morning, everything was functional. We painted the floor the following week.

Rich_49

What size Elites are those and how is the cascade set up ? Nice install , owners must be happy .

Henry

Elite 399, the right one does DHW priority with a brazed plate heat exchanger on the wall. We even installed nameplates on top of each boiler:Boiler 1 and Boiler 2 DHW. We did another one three years ago for the owner at a large block with twin Mod-Con 500. The owner is very satisfied.

Rich_49

I cannot understand why most think HTP does not have support . Best stuff you can install yet not many do . At least you got the idea . Nice job .

GW

Nice Job Henry, and sweet job on the purple primer- i'm always amazed at how so many people can not use purple due to the forces of gravitation pull.

nicholas bonham-carter

Nice job!
I'm not sure I understand the "purple primer"--NBC

EzzyT

Nice clean job. HTP makes great products, they do have great support and stand behind there products.

JUGHNE

Looks like a great up grade!
Does the exhaust go out one side of the building and the combustion air enter on the other side?

What are the 2 different types of PVC? material?
I assume the exhaust pipe is the one that has the purple primer?

I have used the purple primer and never found its true purpose other than leaving the color there. Some guys who know the colored ID it leaves will mix some purple in with the cleaner before they apply the "glue" solvent. Makes a nice looking joint without the purple runs....just a purplish ring around the joint.

Abracadabra

JUGHNE said:

...
I have used the purple primer and never found its true purpose other than leaving the color there. ..

PVC requires primer to get a good weld. You can't just use the glue. Depending on the AHJ purple may be required instead of purple so that the inspector can easily visually confirm primer was used.

KC_Jones

If you ever go through formal training on making up PVC joints they will tell you the primer is actually what makes the primary bond in the joint. The glue is really more of a filler. The only difference between the 2 is color and body. The thicker glue just has some PVC dissolved in it to fill in the gaps. The sockets are actually tapered and cause an interference fit, at the entrance they are loose hence the need for "filler". The pipe end is also supposed to be deburred and the OD chamfered. The pipe manufacturers actually make chamfering tools for this. The reason being is the bottom of the socket is radiused so the chamfer ensures you can bottom it out and ensures you don't "wipe" the glue out of the joint.

Rich_49

Don't prime the fittings and pipe prior to assembly either . Both must be wet to complete the process .

JUGHNE

I have done "solvent welding" of PVC for over 30 years. Every thing you both mentioned above I have read about and done. Worn out several steel inside/outside reamers. Push in and rotate to position. Learned early about "push out" of pipe. 10 seconds of holding together is not always enough time. Also do not prime/clean and try to "dry fit" as a helper did with some 4" ftgs.

I had a State job to install Sch 40 pvc, some for water pressure & some just drain. So we used the purple primer. The can said to apply to "clean and soften" before applying cement. The brand was Uni-Weld 8700. It did not soften the pipe or fitting, it would not remove any factory markings or the hard sheen of the pipe. So clear cleaner was used next which would soften and clean pipe, you could scratch the pipe with your fingernail. Then medium clear pvc cement was applied. Everything was put together wet. So there were 3 cans on the job. And plenty of purple splash visible. No one ever inspected this, it consisted of several thousand feet and never leaked for the 20 years of use.

Now back to the "New Install", does the exhaust and combustion inlet terminate in the same "atmospheric pressure (wind) pressure zone" of the building? Or is that not always a requirement for 2 pipe direct vent?

And there look to be 2 different types of PVC pipe there.

Henry

We have to use ULC S636 certified PVC for venting. We use regular PVC for combustion air. The combustion air comes through the wall while we vent 95% up through the existing chimney shaft.