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Replacing radiator help

JASTG
JASTG Member Posts: 16
Hey all,

So long story short I bought a house with steam! After reading the got steam book, I feel like I should go get another degree in this stuff!
So my question: I had a radiator that was supported upright by 2 J hooks attached to the wall. Well, it fell down. I found a nice looking radiator on craigslist that stands on its own, which I like better, so I got it, cleaned it, and painted it. The only problem now is when I went to install it, I didn't realize that it sat higher than the pipe it needs to attach to, by about an inch.


I figured I have two options, 1) take off the shut off valve and add a section of pipe to raise it a bit. Or 2) use 2 angled elbows to get it up there.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

-Jeff

Comments

  • vaporvac
    vaporvac Member Posts: 1,520
    I sent you a pm.
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Hopefully you realize that the spud on the radiator that connects to the valve on the pipe are a matched pair and will likely leak if you try to use the spud in the radiator you bought with the valve existing on your pipe. What that means is that you will need to remove and replace the valve with a new one anyway and that will come with a new spud for the radiator. Getting the old spud out of the radiator can be a little bit of a challenge but you can do it. Is this radiator on the first floor? If so, it may be best to remove the short length of pipe that comes through the floor and replace it with a new piece an inch longer. Hopefully it is far enough out from the wall to allow you to attach the freestanding radiator and still have about 2 inches of space behind the radiator for good air circulation. Be sure to keep some pitch on the horizontal pipe in the basement so that water/condensate can run back to the boiler, otherwise water may pool in that pipe and cause some water hammer. (I am assumming this is a one pipe steam system, meaning one pipe one one end of the radiator and a vent on the other end).
  • JASTG
    JASTG Member Posts: 16
    yes it's a one pipe system, and as a first time home buyer/radiator owner, I had no idea about the spud! thank you so much!
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,502
    If you search the wall for "replacing radiator valve" you will get the info you need to replace the radiator valve and spud. New valves tend to be shorter so you may need a 1 to 2" longer nipple coming out of the floor.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • JASTG
    JASTG Member Posts: 16
    Thanks Bob!
  • JASTG
    JASTG Member Posts: 16
    ugh, this looks like it will be fun to get to haha
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    JASTG said:

    ugh, this looks like it will be fun to get to haha

    You really don't need to touch that horizontal pipe in the basement if it is far enough away from the wall to allow you to install the new radiator. You probably can remove the vertical pipe that comes through the floor from above by putting your pipe wrench on the pipe just below the valve or even after you take the valve off. If you can get it off from there, then you can get get the length of pipe you need and thread it into the elbow from above as well. If you do need to shorten that horizontal pipe to get more clearance from the wall, then you will have to do that from the basement. from the looks of those threads and elbow, it doesn't look like it will be too difficult.
    SWEI
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,279
    To lengthen the riser pipe thru the floor you could look at Supply House.com; look under black fittings for the picture of SKU: FBEX1 that is a 1" black extension piece, they are made in all sizes up to 2" by Ward Manufacturing. It is a female X male fitting that gives about 1" of extension.

    If you must move the riser away from the wall you could: put the vertical extension on the existing riser as needed; then install your new steam valve with the spud pointing out at a 45 degree angle away from the wall; then install a 45 elbow on the spud with a nipple that screws directly into the radiator. That may give you the clearance from the wall........easier than moving the basement pipe.

    I suppose you use a 90 rather than a 45 but hard to get a slope to insure condensate drain back. Keep it all as short as possible.
  • JASTG
    JASTG Member Posts: 16
    I think I'm going to try to get the pipe out from the upstairs and get a longer one. If that doesn't work I'll check out the supply house site and get the extension pipe.

    Thanks!

    -Jeff
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,502
    When you gat that pipe out the vertical pipe underneath might move out of you view. Once you get that nipple loose put a dowel down the center of it so you don't go nuts trying to line up what ever you decide to use.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
    vaporvac