One Pipe Steam Radiator: Powder Coating and Valve options?

SteamInWellesley

Long story short: Moved into 1890 colonial with 1 pipe steam radiators. New to steam heating. Former owner painted the radiators including vent and valves. We plan to remove, sandblast, powder coat and reinstall with new valves and air vents.

Questions:

1. Anything I should be aware of when removing, refinishing (sandblasting and powder coating), and reinstalling steam radiators? The powder coating company suggest to leave the nipple and union on the radiator because he plans to powder coat it too. He tells me I can remove the nipple and union if I want so he only powder coats the radiator. Not sure whats best.

2. Are the only valve options for 1 pipe steam radiators the solid brass ones? The air vents come in stainless silver in color. So are there valves that are stainless silver or brass is the only way to go?

Thank you in advance for your response.

Best,

SIW

JUGHNE

If you want new rad inlet valves then I would remove the valve spud, (nipple & union nut) before painting. Removing them later may leave scars on new paint. Put a plug in the lower spud hole and air vent hole. Don't know about finish for rad valve other than rough brass, must be some somewhere though.

Removing spuds and valves can sometimes be challenging but doable. Both parts must be changed as they are a matched set.

vr608

JUGHNE said:

Put a plug in the lower spud hole and air vent hole.

That's what I did when I had mine refinished earlier this summer, and it worked out well. A new spud was added when the supply valve was installed. Good luck.

vaporvac

What is wrong with the original valves? It's often nice to keep the old and sometimes their specific to the type of system you may have. Old and original doesn't not necessarily mean broken.

JUGHNE

Yes, they may be fine left in place. They seldom shut off completely if very old, but most of the time are always left on.
However you would not want paint inside the threads of the union nut or on the face of the spud where it matches up to the valve. (Maybe mask the complete spud while painting??)

KC_Jones

Depends how much work you want to put into the valve, there are options......

Abracadabra

@KC_Jones that valve restoration is beautiful!

JUGHNE

KC did you get those plated? What about the spud & nut?

KC_Jones

No I smoothed out the castings with sand paper of various grits all the way down to 1500. Then I buffed them using white rouge. They will tarnish over time, but if I can get my nickel plating set up put together I will be able to re plate them easily since they are smoothed and buffed already. I have a thing for polishing metal. I haven't done anything with the spud or nut, it's tough to do in place and I know getting those spuds out would be very hit or miss. If I ever figure something out I will post it. That valve is missing the original wood handle, though I do have them on a couple of my valves. See attached, and this is with the original nickel plating. This is actually my inspiration for wanting to nickel plate the rest.

Fred

@KC_Jones I visit architectural antique shops every once in a while. We have one here in Dayton, Architectural antiques and Restoration and one in Cincinnati, Wooden Nickel. If I ever come acrose any of those wooden handles, I'm going to pick them up and send them to you.

KC_Jones

Fred I always keep my eyes peeled as well, haven't seen any handles by themselves yet. They are actually pretty fragile and the couple that I still have I have glued back together.

KC_Jones

I should also add, my father and I have been examining the ones I do have and think we have figured out how to replicate them and I have figured out how to make the metal backing plates for them. Not true restoration replicas, but should give a similar appearance....and I always have some mahogany laying around.

vaporvac

Fred said:

@KC_Jones I visit architectural antique shops every once in a while. We have one here in Dayton, Architectural antiques and Restoration and one in Cincinnati, Wooden Nickel. If I ever come acrose any of those wooden handles, I'm going to pick them up and send them to you.

I've probably seen you at the old WN on Main St as I work around the corner! You should let me know next time you're down and I could say "hey". I would be fun to meet a fellow Wallie!

JUGHNE

Spud tailpieces are as you said hit and miss. I was very surprised to have the spud wrench actually unscrew some that I was ready to saw out. Or once the inside ears snapped off an internal/insert wrench saved a few more from the saw work.

KC_Jones

If they only made that tailpiece a tiny bit longer you could get a pipe or strap wrench or something on there instead of using the spud wrench. I will figure out a way to polish that tailpiece....I'm pretty stubborn that way.

hboogz

Great Job KC! Out of curiosity, since I go to architectural salvage places often enough, which brands or demarcations on steam valves should i pay attention to and immediately pick up should i come across any?

Fred

vaporvac said:

Fred said:

@KC_Jones I visit architectural antique shops every once in a while. We have one here in Dayton, Architectural antiques and Restoration and one in Cincinnati, Wooden Nickel. If I ever come acrose any of those wooden handles, I'm going to pick them up and send them to you.

I've probably seen you at the old WN on Main St as I work around the corner! You should let me know next time you're down and I could say "hey". I would be fun to meet a fellow Wallie!

I will do that!

Quercus

KC Jones, that valve is awesome! I am going to pull all my new Danfoss TRV's and polish up my old valves.

hot_rod

A wire wheel in a bench grinder or cordless drill gets them pretty shinny. Not polished like KC's but fairly attractive.