DIY Plumbing for radiator relocation

TXBDan

Hi all,

This is my first post here so let me first say that this forum is incredible. I've learned so much and am having a blast doing so.

I recently bought a 100yr old house in Wakefield, MA with one pipe steam heat. The wife and I are renovating a room and plan to relocate a radiator from one side of a wall to the other. The radiator is now removed and the 1 1/4" pipe is capped for the time being.

The room is on the first floor with easy access to the plumbing from the basement. The radiator is being moved "down pipe" so it's basically a matter of cutting the current pipe about 8' shorter and adding the turn up through the floor to the new radiator's location. I'll also be replacing the shutoff valve since I had to cut the old one to get it off the pipe.

I've tried several plumbers and heating experts (including the few recommended on this site) and none are willing to do the work. I think its just too busy of a time for this small of a job. So I must do it myself.

I'm pretty handy in general, but am new to working with black pipe. I see that Home Depot sells prethreaded pipe of various lengths so I'm hoping to use those to avoid having to cut threads in pipe myself. My current plan is something like this:

1. Remove old spud from current radiator and install new spud
2. set radiator in desired location w/ tilt to drain. Attach the valve in order to find where the hole in the floor should be.
3. Drill hole in floor
4. Loosely attach a pipe to the valve dropping it through the floor in order to see where it will come down to the main pipe. This location will be offset about 2' from the main pipe.
5. Figure out what kind of fittings and lengths I need to make the main pipe meet the radiator from above. This might take some trial and error, but that's ok. Is my only goal to keep the angle rising up toward the radiator for proper drainage?
6. Take a part and reinstall with proper tightening and sealant. What sealant is recommended with being dummy proof a consideration? I've read lots of opinions on the matter here.

Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks a lot!
Dan

sonofaplumber

Dan,

As a newbie here as well I'm happy to help.

Sounds like you know what you're doing. With one pipe steam as you already know make sure everything has a slope towards the main.

Some tips for working with black iron:

If you don't want to re-use the fitting cast iron is very brittle and a few good whacks in the same spot with a sledge hammer will shatter and remove the fitting in seconds flat.

If you want to keep the fitting a little heat really helps get things moving. You will want some large pipe wrenches at least 24" if you don't already.

When re assembling I always use thread tape AND joint compound ('pipe dope') because a lot of times you've cut the threads yourself or are working with cheap Chinese fittings that may not want to seal up with one or the other. Brand has never mattered to me. The gray pipe sealant seems better than the white chunky plumbers stuff.

Not sure about Home Depot but I know Lowe's has a nice cut & thread station right in the plumbing isle and they can make you ANY size/length you need. With this you do have to pay for the whole stock pipe length and they give you the leftover. You can rent the manual threaders and pipe vice as well.

To remove the spud put something solid under the union nut (wooden block, brick, etc) and hit the other side with a hammer to shatter it. Then you can use your pipe wrench on the union seat to remove it.

Hope this helps.

-Joel

ww

it seems you have a good plan to do this...you could also maybe run a pipe to the area where the radiator will be..but you will see it...also if you have a spud wrench you could use that too. it will save alot of time maybe..

it depends on yourself and time constraints,etc. on how you lay out the pipe and removing other half of union in radiator with spud wrench.

sometimes some don't want to work on things when it gets cold...you can always cap it off until you are finished and continue to use until job is done.

vaporvac

Keep in mind that moving rads can sometimes have unintended consequences regarding their convective output, just in case you're moving it from under a window to a wall.

Fred

Also, make sure before you drill through the floor that your hole won't be directly over a floor joist. The best laid plan can always go awry just when you think you've got all your bases covered. Radiator should be 2.5' to 3" away from the wall for best air movement around it.

JUGHNE

You have a 1 1/4" valve & riser, sometimes the horizontal runout to rad is one size larger than vertical riser. Those 2 sizes look a lot alike in size.

Your existing piping might have swing joints below the floor and at the main. You will want to duplicate that in order to straighten up the riser and allow for expansion movement.

I always drill a pilot hole thru the floor and drop a small wire down to the basement for reference. If carpet then I run the drill backwards to cut the fabric and then forwards to drill thru the wood. I would figure out the piping before drilling the large hole. Easier to relocate the hole rather than the final fitting by a 1/2". Remember the swing joints will take up some room.

There is another thread about "Leaking Radiator " that discusses spud removal.

TXBDan

Thanks for all the advice, all.

I thought of another question. Which scenario is easier for a noob?:

1. Connect valve to radiator, riser to valve, etc on down to the main and use a union to connect the riser/branch plumbing to the elbow piece at the end of the main.
2. Use the valve-to-radiator union as the only union in the system. So plumb up from the main putting the valve on the riser last and finally mating the radiator to the valve.

#2 is simpler parts wise but what if I can't line up the valve with the radiator?

I'll try to get some pics soon. Thanks again

Quercus

Hi Dan,

I have a water system but did find that if you have the wick string as a sealant on the valve spud it will be really stuck in there. I twisted the wrench the first time I tried this. I went to my kid's soccer game and it had dried enough in a few hours to come off with reasonable effort.

Also, beware that a twisted spud wrench makes a great shear for removing the tabs inside a spud. Ask me how I know that.

I just did some black pipe and used the heavy teflon tape (was yellow gas line tape) with dope on top and had no leaks. The heavy teflon is much better than the garden variety white tape in large fittings.

If you have a union in the run to the rad, you can reuse it on new pipe to your new location and if things go pear shaped you have the fallback.

Steve

JUGHNE

Swing joint elbows make the job easier for alignment.

TXBDan

Well, it's been a few months, but its finally done. We cleaned and painted the radiator and replaced the spud for the new valve. I plumbed it up today. It was a tight and tricky spot which required some patience, but i got through it. The radiator is now heating nicely.

Fred

Looks Great! I like the picture Frame flooring too!