HELP, I am trying to unsweat 1-1/4 copper

Quercus

Stupidly, I cut into my tube with short sections between fittings. I can't put a new fitting on what is coming out of the fitting and need to empty out /remove the tube from/ the end of a tee. I would replace the fitting but it is in a soldered up secondary loop takeoff. The mass of all the copper is killing me.

There is no water in the pipe. Solder is lead free silver bearing. Pipe is type L.

I have heated the fitting trying to get all the solder to liquify using both a turbo-torch and a map-oxy setup. No joy.

Is there a trick or just try to salvage what I can and re-do everything?

I am really frustrated at this point. Any tips appreciated.

JUGHNE

A B tank that does acetylene/air has worked for me. Got to get the heat all the way around the fitting and grab the stub by putting the pliers in the end, don't grab it around the pipe.
Get it loose and rotate and keep heating and rotation. Don't stop moving the pipe until it is out.
Don't want to egg the stub or fitting. Once it is out I would wipe the inside of the fitting while still hot with cotton gloves. Always good to have a bucket of water close. You learn how fast to wipe. Sometimes have to use a knife to trim out excess solder after it cools. It the new pipe will only dry fit say 1/2 way in, I put a truth bury mark on it and as the fitting is heated you can push it completely to bury. Just so the fitting is not distorted.

I believe I read somewhere that applying flux as you heat it helps to loosen the solder.

Quercus

Thanks. I egged the first fitting while everything was hot. There is only 1/8 of fitting protruding from the fitting and the tube is mangled from trying to twist it out while hot.

I don't have acetylene. I'll try flux tomorrow to try the other parts of the tee.

Is all the other attached metal getting me or is it something in the solder?

vibert_c

There is an old saying "never send a boy on a man's errand"
Get a helper with a similar torch in each hand, for a total of three torches. Copper is the best conductor of heat you will find around.

rick in Alaska

Sometimes they are just stuck real good. I have had good luck on a few fittings by rapping it with a mallet or similar after the solder is melted. It seems to break the bond a little better in some situations, but not always. Then use your pliers to twist it out.
If that doesn't work, you might try using a saw blade and cut the pipe on the inside. Cut through the pipe until it gets to the fitting. Then you can roll the pipe in on itself and peel it out. You just have to be very careful with the cut.
Rick

Quercus

rick in Alaska said:

If that doesn't work, you might try using a saw blade and cut the pipe on the inside. Cut through the pipe until it gets to the fitting. Then you can roll the pipe in on itself and peel it out. You just have to be very careful with the cut.
Rick

I had tried that with two cuts but stopped short of the fitting, thinking I could deform the tube. Once the tubing is deformed it's mechanically stuck.

The tube is in about an inch in these fittings. I guess the good news is I am getting the solder all the way in when I sweat them.

Thanks,
Steve

hot_rod

Another trick. A couple mini vice grips like this and tap on them with a small hammer.

If you overheat the connection you can "burn" the tube into the fitting. Once the solder melts, take away the flame. Most beginners overheat copper joints.

Quercus

I would have killed for that much tube to grab. I had a couple with about 3/16" outside the fitting. I got it all together finally. It's cooling down before the pressure test.

I now appreciate the value of a product like the hydrolink. I would have to do the numbers, but I think I could have saved money or been really close. If I had a solid wall nearby for mounting I would have pondered more closely. Next boiler.

Off to the liquor store...

Quercus

vibert_c said:

There is an old saying "never send a boy on a man's errand"

you're talking about the torch, right?

ChrisJ

My experience has been you have a very small window when doing this. Too cool, and the solder is solid, too hot and the pipe expands in the fitting and won't move.

I'd heat it, and keep the torch moving around the fitting, don't heat the pipe, and keep wiggling the pipe. You should feel it start to move at one point and that's when you try to twist/wiggle and pull it out.

I'll be honest, if it's 1 1/4" and it fit at all tight when it was put together having only 1/8" to grab doesn't sound too promising.
Maybe have someone else work the torch while you lock two sets of vice grips on the little bit of pipe, one on each side and then try to work it out?

vibert_c

The mass of all the copper is killing me.
This is why I suggested more heat.
It is not my nature to slam a chap that is trying his best to learn the ropes. I'll bet you think ahead before making a cut in a pipe like this one, when lacking a good heating torch.

Abracadabra

double barrel turbo torch. 'nuff said.

RobG

I imagine there is a reason that you didn't just cut it back and use a coupling and a new 90?

Quercus

I had a lot of fittings close together and didn't see an opportunity for that. After the grief I took more space between fittings just in case.

I've unsweat smaller fittings in the past but am new to 1-1/4. It's a whole different kettle of fish.

Next time I'm goin' all snark-bite.

SWEI

Uniweld actually makes a triple barrel version of that, but I really prefer having multiple heat sources spread around the pipe.

Goss has some air-fuel double tip designs that fit standard hand torches.

If you have an oxy-fuel setup, a Cap'n Hook will get 'er done fast.

RobG

SWEI said:

Uniweld actually makes a triple barrel version of that, but I really prefer having multiple heat sources spread around the pipe.

Goss has some air-fuel double tip designs that fit standard hand torches.

If you have an oxy-fuel setup, a Cap'n Hook will get 'er done fast.

That looks like a cool, especially for large diameter copper. It does look a little easy to get damaged on the jobsite though. What do they go for? (I don't believe tool prices fall under the taboo rule).

SWEI

Not much, actually http://www.amazon.com/Uniweld-MTF-5-Capn-Hook-Flame/dp/B00FI1JM6Y

Tinman

If you have the proper size torch tip it's quick and easy. Grip the end of the pipe with a pair of channel locks, get the solder molten, and while doing so wiggle and pull aggressively on the pipe.

Tinman

Having the right tools is half the battle. I pulled a couple 1 1/4" pipes this week using a Turbo-Torch T-5 tip and both were out in roughly a minute each. No harm done to the fitting.

FranklinD

I read this with interest. I recently had to redo some near boiler piping (all 1-1/4" copper) and had to pull apart both sides of a 90 on the boiler return. I used mapp gas (or its modern equivalent...I forget the name) and a basic wide torch tip. If I had 3 hands, it would've been perfect. I like that Captain Hook tip...that looks really cool...hot...you know.

I kept applying heat and attempting to turn the 90 horizontally (lucky that there is a flange 2' upstream of the ell that I could unbolt). It seemed like nothing, nothing, then suddenly it gave and was loose as could be. I was holding it with channel locks and pulled and turned, pulled and turned, and it was a bit of a fight getting it to separate, but it did.

Side note: I'm glad I redid that joint...looking at the pipe and the ell, the original installer only got the solder about halfway into the bottom of the fitting.

SWEI

FranklinD said:

I kept applying heat and attempting to turn the 90 horizontally (lucky that there is a flange 2' upstream of the ell that I could unbolt). It seemed like nothing, nothing, then suddenly it gave and was loose as could be.

95/5 solder?

jonny88

If I was you I would cut out fitting and install new fitting.Sounds like its egged and burnt and will probably leak on you.Cut it out and tie back in with a slip coupling