Electric Heat, Converting to Oil + Mini-Splits or Propane + Central AC, Questions...Recommendations

dalcombright

Gas is not an option and I was basically laughed at when I called our gas provider on how soon it would be an option. Its about 3 miles from my house with 0 plans to go there (Eversource, South Shore, MA). We are planning to use the MassSave program to make the jump since this will probably run us a solid amount . I had a few general questions since I know basically nothing...

1. Oil vs Propane. We have a clean slate coming from electric. What do people recommend? Buying the tank out right for propane probably isn't an option at the moment and my area propane is $2.30, oil is $2.39. This is a frustrating topic because propane people tell you oil is dumb, oil people tell you propane is dumb. I even called a company that does both and there oil guy said propane is dumb, propane guy said oil is dumb. REALLY FRUSTRATING. Researching online brought me to about a $.50 difference propane needs to be for it to match the efficiency of oil for heating. It can convert to gas but thats probably never happening so I want to take that out of the equation.
2. Mini-splits vs conventional ducted AC? I was looking at doing 4 heads, 2 condensers to cover our house (Fujitsu). Our house is only 1600 feet. If we went oil/mini it would be a forced hot water system, if we went propane it would be a forced hot air ducted AC system. Thoughts?
3. Forced hot air vs water... Based on my readings, forced hot air will be even dryer than electric baseboard, which is already terrible. Other than steam I assume forced hot water is next best correct?

Sorry if all these things are answered in numerous places, I have been having trouble scouring the internet for reliable information.

BobC

Liquid propane in this area (MA) is usually more expensive than oil. A gallon of oil will produce 138,000 BTU of heat, a gallon of propane will produce 91,000 BTU of heat so at those prices oil is the clear winner.

If you want to heat with minisplits you will need a top of the line unit to be able to heat at the temperatures we see around here. Someone just posted a study that says the minisplits are not very efficient when it gets really cold. I think they are best used for supplemental heat in this environment but that could change.

With oil or propane your choices are forced hot air or forced hot water. The hot water might be easier to retrofit into an existing house because properly sized ducts are not small. High velocity systems use smaller ducting but you really don't want high velocity heat in my opinion.

A propane fired modcon would be more efficient than a good three pass oil boiler but would probably cost more to maintain.

Has a heat loss been done on the house yet? that is really the first thing that has to be done, nobody is going to do it for free unless you give them the install job. Do your homework and select a contractor that will stand behind his work - the best contractor is NOT the cheapest contractor. Don't get hung up on a brand, let the contractor install what he is comfortable with.

good luck,

Bob

njtommy

I would recommend staying way from mini splits they work great and I know a few people that heat there houses with them in NJ, but really cold days they struggle to maintain set point.

Heat pumps are really a great idea any time your running either oil or propane as a secondary fuel source. So you are on track.

You could do a 2 stage propane furnace with a heat pump aswell.

Me personally if it was my house I would be using a heatpump with a propane Combi boiler or tankless hot water heater.
Rheem has a system out there that would work for you. I'm not saying to buy there product, but it's some good information.

There is also a video of this system on YouTube.

There are plenty of other companies out there that you would be able to do the same setup with.

http://www.rheem.com/products/integrated_systems/

NJ, Designer

The layout of your house would be a big deciding factor, if you want to go with ductless heat pumps or forced heat. where would you run the duct work??? Conditioned space, unvented attic???? etc...

Now for the record, Forced air heat is not Dry Air, inadequate air flow (bad duct work) raises the temp of the forced air system and caused the dry air Problem. Especially today with 2-stage furnaces or even better modulating, However bad duct work and/or the wrong coil can screw it all up.....

Also most of the high EER and SEER ratings on the ductless units are for the the single head units, double check the exact model your looking at, cause if your doing the program (i'm not from your state) they normally need high ratings...

Remember if you get what you paid consider yourself lucky, if you think you got more than you paid for it's time to wake up....

Don't stop with a good Manual J, get a S, D, and T too....

Good luck from the jersey shore

Marz

I also live in MA. This is a no brainer for me. Oil fired 3 pass boiler with 2 air handlers. Our customers love the hydro air systems, and I think you would love it as well. Safe, cheap, comfortable.