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Venting of mid efficiency via chimney

Hello,
The current water heater is a 20yo gas fired tank atmospheric vented into a masonry chimney with single wall 26ga 3" pipe. Its making those wonderful gurgling sounds whenever a faucet is opened.
I'm looking to replace it with something with a higher efficiency but not necessarily a condensing unit.
Maybe a mid efficiency tank or tankless.
I looked at the Rheem EcoSense direct vent but the venting accessories are all double wall steel and I'm assuming that its a coaxial setup where supply air is brought in via that piping. I wouldn't be able to support the piping every 4' as required in the instruction so that's a no go.
Any suggestions?
Mid or high efficiency, masonry chimney vented, tank or tankless.
The current water heater is a 20yo gas fired tank atmospheric vented into a masonry chimney with single wall 26ga 3" pipe. Its making those wonderful gurgling sounds whenever a faucet is opened.
I'm looking to replace it with something with a higher efficiency but not necessarily a condensing unit.
Maybe a mid efficiency tank or tankless.
I looked at the Rheem EcoSense direct vent but the venting accessories are all double wall steel and I'm assuming that its a coaxial setup where supply air is brought in via that piping. I wouldn't be able to support the piping every 4' as required in the instruction so that's a no go.
Any suggestions?
Mid or high efficiency, masonry chimney vented, tank or tankless.
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Comments
Would a condensing unit also require piping for outside air?
Generally yes, but depending on the TWH manufacturer and the leakiness of the basement -- maybe not.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc
Whatever you do, avoid the use of PVC pipe for venting combustion appliances. Polypropylene (PP) or stainless steel are the way to go- they are UL listed for venting combustion appliances whereas PVC/CPVC is not. Yes, we see a lot of PVC combustion venting, but that doesn't mean it's the right way to go.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc
The Polypro Duravent pipe is listed a Category II and IV. Does that qualify it for Category III ? I don't know enough about the categories.
I once bought aluminum flue liner from my supply house for a gas boiler
Takagi/AO Smith and Rinnai both use Category IV on their condensing TWH models. I'm sure there are others.
Category II
An appliance that operates with negative static pressure in the vent and a temperature that is low enough to cause excessive condensation in the vent.
Category III
An appliance that operates with positive static pressure in the vent and a temperature that is high enough to avoid condensation in vent.
Category IV
An appliance that operates with positive static pressure in the vent and a temperature that is low enough to
cause excessive condensation in the vent.
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Bradford-White-RG2D50S6N-50-Gallon-40000-BTU-Defender-Safety-System-Damper-Atmos-Vent-High-EF-Energy-Saver-Residential-Water-Heater-Nat-Gas
I'm suggesting this due to simplicity and silence. A standard atmospheric would be the cheapest, but I hate the pilot and all of that heat always going up the flue.
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