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PE-RT and Extruded Plates

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Harvey Ramer
Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
in Radiant Heating
Has anyone used PE-RT pipe with extruded aluminum plates? Does it stay snapped in securely? Will it walk out over time?

Anybody got a track record? Good experiences or bad?

Thanks
Harvey

Comments

  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
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    The most recognized expert in the industry is Dale Picard with Radiant Engineering out of Bozeman Montana. I hope you are using his product... If anyone would be aware of an issue, it would be him.

    ME

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

    Rich_49Harvey Ramer
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
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    I wish Dale's product was sold locally.
    Steve Minnich
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,158
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    I think most of the Radiant manufacturers sell Radiant Engineering plates, under their name. It may be the "lite" version, a bit less aluminum but same tight tube fit.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
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    Maybe a version of the C-Fin but I haven't seen the U-Fin in my area? Nor the 8' lengths.
    Steve Minnich
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,158
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    Try Dale next time you have a job. He has extruders in a number of areas across the US. I picked up a trailer load of 10 footers right from an extruder 30 miles from me once. As I recall this shop had the ability to squirt out 20 footers if you wanted.

    Aluminum weight adds up when you ship large orders, the closer to the jobsite you can ship from, the more affordable.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
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    Sweet. I will do that.
    Steve Minnich
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
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    Thanks for the info, guys.

    Next question,
    Has anyone attached the plates using a coil roofing gun with 3/4" nails? My main concern would be that the nails don't work loose over time. It would be a hell of a lot faster than screwing them all!
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
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    If I remember correctly, Hot Rod was shooting the plates years ago? Ear protection a must. Another thing I learned from HR was to use a palm nailer to bang the tubing in. I can attest to that working great.
    Steve Minnich
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
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    I kind of thought I heard HR mention it before. Wasn't sure.

    The palm nailer is a new one to me. I can see that it would work great. I just happen to have one. Gonna try it.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,158
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    Tried both the coil nailer and narrow crown stapler. It's a tough go with the thick gauge plates and they do get distorted at the fastener, lots of mis-fires. Thinner gauge aluminum plates nail easier, but also distort more at every shot.

    Also tried a self feed screw gun with drill point screws. That was a nice tight fastener, but slow and expensive per shot. Working overhead kept plugging the feed mechanism with aluminum chips from the drill point.

    Pre-drilled plates help, but hitting the hole with the roofing nailer was a challenge.

    Even tried a heavy duty double stick tape that 3M sent me.

    I never did come up with a super fast method.

    I also pioneered the graphite plates with Watts Radiant and installed some of the first prototypes. They shoot up easily, but tube contact and plate to subfloor contact, not so great. I believe they added a stiffer since the first try.

    You really need top quality ear protection when you use pneumatic tools in joist bays, I'm still paying for that lesson :)

    I still have all these tools if you care to try one. For a small retro, it's doable. Over 2000 square feet or more is a slough.

    Now we know why the rubber tube staple up or the old Wirsbo "dangled tube" method was so popular. Too bad about the crappy heat transfer.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    We modified a Milwaukee M12 cordless palm nailer by adding an anvil-ish extension with a flat face that worked out pretty well.

    Still looking for a faster way to attach the plates to the subfloor, though.
    wyo
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    Don't forget the young helper and a bakers scaffold! In my opinion that is what really makes the install easier. The hardest part is finding a helper willing to work. :'(
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
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    I've only ever screwed the plates tight. A tedious task.

    I don't have any midgets running around to help pull the tube through and hand me stuff. I've been working alone so long now, I just always find a way to get things done. I'll be running around on drywall stilts, materials on the baker scaffold and the chop saw set up high for cutting the plates.

    It doesn't take me long to do this stuff, but I am always looking for an easier, faster way. Where better to ask than here.
    Mark Eatherton
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
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    https://youtu.be/6M7EFtgGFdM

    This would be the cats meow for pre drilled plates except 1 1/2" naiils are the shortest nail. It will most certainly punch through heavy gauge aluminum. Metal stud framers use them to shoot track down on concrete floors. Worth a chat to paslode to see if a 3/4" nail is doable explaining the application.
    Mark Eatherton

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