Peerless Pinnacle boiler (propane fired) with PR0 code-no heat, no hot water

Huxley

Hey folks!

This has happened with this thing before and it has corrected itself, but I have rent a house and it has a peerless pinnacle (aka munchkin I believe) boiler in a hellish backroom in the basement. It has the stupid PR0 code out of nowhere, and it had behaved itself nearly all year.

I took a video and explained what is going on with it to the best of my ability and to show you what I'm dealing with. I did take out the water pressure switch and clean it up a little to no avail.

Any time it has done this before, it has usually corrected itself after a while.

The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NqyQ6NJcwAE&feature=youtu.be

Thanks for any help!

JStar

Looks like an error code for low water pressure. What does the gauge say?

SWEI

There should be an autofill (series of valves, one backflow and one pressure reducing) between the well tank and the heating system. Can you get us a photo of that portion of the system?

Huxley

I'll take another video and post it! Hopefully it'll help

RobG

It looks like the fill valve may be coming in just above the expansion tank (the 1/2" pipe just above it) if you follow it back there should be an autofill and a valve. Does the system have a leak somewhere. It should not be losing water.

SWEI

Also -- when you checked the pressure in the expansion tank, did you remove it from the system?

Huxley

Video is almost finished loading into youtube. No, I didn't take the expansion tank out of the system. It almost feels like there's no water in the top. I just checked the pressure with a gauge from below where the valve is.

I don't see any sort of autofill anything or valves...I have this overwhelming suspicion that this stuff wasn't installed correctly when put in.

Not losing water anywhere.

Huxley

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lv6hHxloAT8

Here's the next one. Hopefully that sheds some light.

JStar

You don't have a pressure reducing valve, so the water feed (red handle) is probably closed. You can open that valve until the boiler pressure reads about 12psi, or 6psi for every story in the house.

Huxley

I have red handles everywhere, and I promise you ALL those handles are open. That jet pump feeds the entire house with water and I have water pressure everywhere in the house, just not in that system.

Shane_2

I believe I saw a "Fill trol" fitting above the expansion tank. Most likely clogged from the well water. I have cut out many of those over the years, even on city water.

The Fill troll is the pressure reducing valve. If clogged, it won't let any water in the system.

(http://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-110-9-Model-110-100-Fill-Trol-w-1-Purger-Air-Vent-4-4-Gallon-Volume)

JStar

Shane said:

I believe I saw a "Fill trol" fitting above the expansion tank. Most likely clogged from the well water. I have cut out many of those over the years, even on city water.

The Fill troll is the pressure reducing valve. If clogged, it won't let any water in the system.

(http://www.supplyhouse.com/Amtrol-110-9-Model-110-100-Fill-Trol-w-1-Purger-Air-Vent-4-4-Gallon-Volume)

Good catch.

SWEI

Shane said:

I believe I saw a "Fill trol" fitting above the expansion tank. Most likely clogged from the well water. I have cut out many of those over the years, even on city water.

Translation: You can replace it easily enough, but the incremental cost to install a longer-lasting valve will be negligible.
e.g. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-553549A-1-2-Sweat-Inlet-x-1-2-FNPT-Outlet-AutoFill-Filling-Valve

RobG

Good luck finding a fill valve on a Sunday. What you can do in the meantime is hook up a hose to the drain valve on the left side of the boiler and add water from there. Make sure that you don't exceed 12-15 PSI. At that point you will need to bleed the air out of the system and replenish the water as the air is expelled. Let us know how it goes. (and be sure and get that fill valve replaced)

Shane_2

SWEI said:

Shane said:

I believe I saw a "Fill trol" fitting above the expansion tank. Most likely clogged from the well water. I have cut out many of those over the years, even on city water.

Translation: You can replace it easily enough, but the incremental cost to install a longer-lasting valve will be negligible.
e.g. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-553549A-1-2-Sweat-Inlet-x-1-2-FNPT-Outlet-AutoFill-Filling-Valve

Yes, sorry wasn't more clear about that. Cut out and replace with something that works.

Huxley

I opened the side of that valve and water did come out. If I'm messing with the part I think you're talking about...this unit has done this crap before and it usually fixed itself. It also usually happens when it goes off (it was warm one day, around 60, and I was gone all day and my heat was down low) and then corrects itself eventually. Should I take a picture of the portion I think you're referring to in order to be sure?

Mark Eatherton

If memory serves me correctly, there was a high limit manual reset button on the flue gas sensor that was wired in series at one point (early models) with the pressure switch. Only way to find out for sure wha't the problem is is to test with an ohm meter and make sure you have a circuit.

Also, with the fill valve you have, it is dependent upon the bladder charge pressure to dictate system fill pressure. If the tank has lost its charge, then your fill valve fills to that pressure (ZERO). Only way to know for sure is to shut the make up water off, bleed system to zero PSI, then put a pressure gage on the schrader valve, and if need be adjust air charge to 12 to 15 PSI. Then turn on make up and water fill pressure should go to 12 to 15 PSI. If you see water on the air side, tank needs replaced.

ME

Mark Eatherton

Also, now that I've watched your video, all of that moisture below the boiler is not normal. If it is condensate (suspect it is) it is an acid and will eat up the concrete. You need to get a pro in there to look things over and service the boiler. Probably hasn't been serviced since installed and is supposed to receive annual cleanings, testings, etc. No leak is a good leak, and with these boilers, when the heat exchanger fails, you will see a continuous flow out of the condensate drain, which is considered normal, WHEN the boiler is running. If there is water dripping out of there when the boiler has not been running for a long time, you have a hole in your heat exchanger and need a new boiler.

ME